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Mustang Travel Guide

Wind-carved canyons, apple orchards, cliff caves and the walled city of Lo Manthang: how to plan Lower and Upper Mustang, from permits and jeeps to seasons and festivals.

Altitude

2,670–3,840 m

Gateway

Pokhara to Jomsom

Upper mustang permit

US$50 per day

Acap permit

NPR 3,000

Best time

Mar–May, Sep–Nov

Trip length

4–16 days

Why visit Mustang

Mustang is the high, dry district north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges in west-central Nepal. It sits in the rain shadow of the Himalaya, so instead of the green terraces you see around Pokhara you get ochre cliffs, wind-scoured plateaus, poplar-lined villages and a sky that is often a hard, clear blue. Culturally it looks north: Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, prayer walls and whitewashed flat-roofed houses stacked with firewood.

The district divides into two very different trips. Lower Mustang runs along the Kali Gandaki valley from Ghasa and Tukuche up through Marpha, Jomsom and Kagbeni to the pilgrimage site of Muktinath. It needs only the standard Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and is reachable by road or a short flight from Pokhara. Upper Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo, begins just north of Kagbeni and stretches to the Tibetan border. It is a restricted area: you need a special permit, a licensed guide and a registered agency, and the reward is one of the best-preserved Tibetan cultural landscapes anywhere, including the walled town of Lo Manthang.

What it is like

Mustang is about landscape and culture more than close-up mountain views, although Nilgiri, Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Peak loom over Jomsom and Marpha. Days are bright and sunny for much of the year, but a strong wind funnels up the Kali Gandaki from late morning, so locals and pilots alike get moving early. Accommodation is mostly family-run lodges and teahouses; comfort is simple but generally better than on many trekking routes.

Roads have changed Mustang. A jeep track now runs all the way from Beni to Jomsom, Lo Manthang and the Korala border pass, and much of the classic Upper Mustang trekking route shares ground with it. You can still walk, and good trekking itineraries use quieter side trails, but many visitors now combine driving with day walks.

Who it suits

  • Culture lovers and photographers: monasteries, cave complexes, festivals and dramatic eroded cliffs.
  • Trekkers who want something different from Everest or Annapurna Base Camp, with moderate altitude (mostly 2,700 to 4,000 m) rather than high passes.
  • Travellers with limited walking ability: Lower Mustang and even Lo Manthang can be visited by jeep.
  • Monsoon-season visitors: the rain shadow makes Mustang one of the few parts of Nepal worth visiting in June to August.

Quick orientation

Picture a valley running north from Pokhara. Roughly 80 km of road takes you to Beni, then the route follows the Kali Gandaki gorge past Tatopani hot springs, Ghasa, Kalopani and Tukuche to Marpha (about 2,670 m) and the district hub Jomsom (about 2,720 m), which has the airport. Some 10 km further north is Kagbeni (about 2,800 m), the gateway to Upper Mustang. East of Kagbeni a side valley climbs to Muktinath (around 3,700 to 3,800 m) at the foot of the Thorong La, the high pass of the Annapurna Circuit. North of Kagbeni the restricted zone runs through Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang to Lo Manthang (about 3,840 m). For the wider picture, see our Nepal travel hub and the Pokhara guide, the base for almost every Mustang trip.

Best things to do in Mustang

Most highlights cluster along the Jomsom to Muktinath axis in Lower Mustang and around Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang. Entry fees at monasteries and small museums are usually modest and paid in cash; amounts change, so carry small NPR notes and ask at the door.

Muktinath temple complex

Muktinath is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Nepal, sacred to both Hindus (as a Vishnu shrine) and Buddhists (who honour Guru Rinpoche here). The temple courtyard has 108 water spouts shaped like cow heads; devout pilgrims run beneath all of them in icy water. Nearby, the Jwala Mai shrine shelters a small natural gas flame burning beside a spring.

Lodges and jeeps are in Ranipauwa, a short uphill walk below the temple. Allow two to three hours, and go early morning before the wind and the crowds of pilgrims, many of whom arrive by jeep from India via Pokhara. At this altitude (around 3,700 to 3,800 m) walk slowly. Dress modestly, remove shoes where asked and do not photograph inside the inner shrine.

Kagbeni old village

Kagbeni is a fortress-like village of mud-brick houses, narrow alleys and tunnels at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong rivers. It marks the border of Upper Mustang: the checkpoint at the northern end is as far as you can go without a restricted area permit. Walk the lanes to see the ruined Kag Khar palace, a relic of the salt trade, the red Kag Chode monastery, and the two clay khenis, guardian figures placed at the village entrances to ward off evil.

Give it half a day, ideally staying overnight so you see it in the soft early light when the wind is calm. It is about 10 km or roughly 30 to 45 minutes by jeep from Jomsom, or a pleasant three to four hour walk along the riverbed and higher trails.

Marpha, the apple village

Marpha is the prettiest village in Lower Mustang: whitewashed stone houses, flagstone lanes with a covered drainage channel, and a monastery perched above the rooftops. It is famous for apples, and you will find apple brandy, cider, dried apple, jam and apple pie in lodges across the valley. Visit the local distillery shops and orchards from late August to October, when the harvest is in.

Marpha is about 6 km south of Jomsom, 20 minutes by jeep or a two hour walk on the old trail. The Thakali people here have a strong food culture, so it is a good place to eat a proper Thakali set meal. Nearby Chhairo has an old Nyingma gompa and a Tibetan refugee settlement worth a short detour.

Jomsom and the Kali Gandaki gorge

Jomsom is the district hub, with the airport, banks, an ATM, a hospital, police and the widest choice of lodges and cafés. It is less charming than Marpha or Kagbeni but useful as a base. Look for the small Mustang Eco Museum, which covers local culture, herbs and Tibetan medicine (check opening hours locally).

The Kali Gandaki gorge, which runs between the 8,000 m peaks of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, is often described as one of the deepest in the world. The riverbed is a source of shaligrams, black ammonite fossils that Hindus revere as forms of Vishnu. Buy them only from established shops if at all, and be aware that fossils and antiques cannot always be exported; ask before you buy.

Thini village and Dhumba Lake

Across the river from Jomsom, Thini is one of the oldest settlements in the valley, with a Bon-influenced monastery and fine views of Nilgiri. From Thini, a short climb leads to Dhumba Lake, a small turquoise lake considered sacred and fringed with prayer flags, with a monastery above it.

The loop from Jomsom to Thini, Dhumba Lake and back takes roughly three to four hours on foot and makes an ideal acclimatisation walk before heading to Muktinath or Upper Mustang. Start early: by late morning the valley wind can make walking unpleasant and dusty. Carry water and sun protection, as there is little shade.

Walk the Jomsom to Muktinath trail

The classic Lower Mustang walk links Jomsom, Kagbeni and Muktinath in two or three days. Rather than following the road, use the trails via Lubra, a small Bon village in a side valley, or via the higher route through Jhong. This gives you villages, canyons and mountain views without traffic dust.

The total height gain from Jomsom to Muktinath is about 1,000 m, so go slowly and sleep in Kagbeni on the way up. Jeeps run between all three places, so you can walk one way and ride back. Officially, trekking in the Annapurna Conservation Area now requires a licensed guide; see the permits section below and check the current rule with your agency.

Lo Manthang walled city

Lo Manthang, the former capital of the Kingdom of Lo, is the highlight of Upper Mustang. Its mud-brick wall encloses a compact town of around 1,400 people with a four-storey royal palace, narrow lanes and fifteenth-century monasteries, including Jampa Lhakhang and Thubchen, famous for their wall paintings, which were carefully restored in recent decades. The town is on UNESCO’s tentative World Heritage list.

Plan at least one full day here, plus a second for side trips. Monastery opening is not guaranteed; your guide will usually arrange access with the caretaker and small entry fees apply. A magnitude 5.3 earthquake in September 2026 reportedly damaged an outer wall of Chode Gompa, but local officials said lodges and roads were operating normally; ask your agency for the latest.

Chhoser and the sky caves

Mustang’s cliffs are riddled with thousands of man-made caves, some used as tombs, homes or meditation cells over more than two thousand years. The most accessible complex is Jhong Cave at Chhoser, north of Lo Manthang, a multi-level warren reached by ladders and passages. Nearby Garphu and Nyphu have cliff monasteries built into the rock.

Chhoser is usually visited as a half-day or full-day trip from Lo Manthang by jeep, horse or on foot. A small entry fee is charged at Jhong Cave. Wear shoes with good grip, mind your head inside, and be prepared for steep wooden ladders. Archaeological finds here have included human remains, so behave as you would at any burial site.

Ghar Gompa and Dhakmar cliffs

Ghar Gompa, near Dhakmar on the eastern side of the valley, is often described as the oldest monastery in the region and is associated with Guru Rinpoche. Its interior has striking painted stones and murals. Dhakmar itself sits beneath vivid red, eroded cliffs, said in local legend to be stained by the blood of a demon defeated by Guru Rinpoche.

Most trekking loops pass here on the return from Lo Manthang via the Chogo La (around 4,280 m), the highest point of the classic route. Jeep tours can include it with a detour. It is one of the sections where walking still clearly beats driving, so ask for it in your itinerary.

Tsarang and Ghami villages

On the way to Lo Manthang, Tsarang (about 3,560 m) has a large monastery and the shell of an old fortress palace on the edge of a canyon, while Ghami (about 3,510 m) is known for one of the longest mani walls in Nepal, a line of carved prayer stones stretching for several hundred metres.

Both are overnight stops on the trek and quick stops on jeep tours. Walk clockwise around mani walls and chortens, as local Buddhists do. Early morning and late afternoon light on the cliffs around Ghami is superb for photography.

Thakali food and apple brandy

Mustang’s best-known food is the Thakali set: rice or buckwheat dhido, black lentil dal, seasonal vegetables, pickles, ghee and often meat curry, with refills. It is eaten all over Nepal, but it tastes best in Marpha, Tukuche and Jomsom. Also try buckwheat pancakes, Tibetan bread, thukpa noodle soup, salty butter tea and dried yak or goat meat in season.

A full Thakali set in Lower Mustang costs very roughly NPR 600 to 1,200 (about £3.50 to £7), and more in Upper Mustang. Local apple and apricot brandy is strong; go easy at altitude, where alcohol worsens dehydration and acute mountain sickness.

Mountain biking and motorbike touring

The dirt road from Muktinath down the Kali Gandaki to Tatopani is one of Nepal’s classic downhill bike rides, losing more than 2,500 m over two or three days. Bikes can be hired in Pokhara, and some outfitters in Muktinath also rent them. Motorbike tours to Muktinath and Lo Manthang on Royal Enfields or dirt bikes are increasingly popular.

Ride only with good protective gear and an experienced operator. The road has loose gravel, river crossings and heavy jeep traffic, and the FCDO notes that road accidents are a major cause of death and injury in Nepal. Check that your insurance covers the activity and altitude. Upper Mustang motorbike tours still need the restricted area permit and a guide.

Upper Mustang: permits, trek or jeep

Upper Mustang opened to foreign visitors only in 1992 and is still managed as a restricted area to protect its culture and environment. The rules below are the ones most travellers get wrong, and they changed in late 2025 and 2026.

The restricted area permit (RAP)

  • Cost: US$50 per person per day (roughly £37 to £40) for foreign nationals, counted for the days you spend north of the Kagbeni checkpoint. This replaced the long-standing flat fee of US$500 for the first 10 days (then US$50 a day). The Nepal cabinet approved the change in November 2025; several sources date it from 19 November 2025.
  • What that means in practice: a 5-day jeep tour inside the zone costs about US$250 in permit fees; a classic 10-day trek inside the zone still costs about US$500.
  • Who issues it: the Department of Immigration, and only through a government-registered Nepali trekking agency. You cannot apply yourself.
  • Guide: a licensed guide from that agency must accompany you throughout.
  • Solo travellers: the old two-person minimum for restricted areas was reportedly dropped in March 2026, so a single traveller can now get the permit, but still needs a guide.
  • Documents: passport valid for at least six months, a valid Nepal visa, and passport photos or scans. Allow a couple of working days; agencies handle this in Kathmandu.

You also need the ACAP (NPR 3,000, about £17, for non-SAARC nationals). Sources disagree on whether a TIMS card is also needed for Upper Mustang; your agency will know the current requirement at the time of booking. Fees in Nepal change often, so get the final permit cost confirmed in writing before you pay.

Trekking Upper Mustang

The classic trek runs from Kagbeni via Chele (about 3,050 m), Syangboche (about 3,800 m), Ghami and Tsarang to Lo Manthang, returning via Ghar Gompa, Dhakmar and the Chogo La (about 4,280 m). It takes around 10 days of walking inside the restricted zone, or 14 to 17 days door to door from Kathmandu. Days are typically five to seven hours on dry, exposed and sometimes loose ground with modest but repeated climbs.

The road now overlaps much of the route, so good itineraries use the alternative trails through Tetang, Dhakmar and Ghar Gompa. Expect dust and some jeep traffic on shared sections. Fitness requirement is moderate; altitude, wind and sun are the main challenges.

Upper Mustang by jeep

A jeep tour from Pokhara typically takes 7 to 9 days: Pokhara to Tatopani or Jomsom, then Kagbeni, then Lo Manthang, a day for Chhoser caves and the monasteries, and back down. Jomsom to Lo Manthang is roughly 90 to 100 km and usually six to ten hours depending on road conditions, river crossings and stops.

It suits travellers with limited time or mobility and is cheaper in permit fees because you spend fewer days in the zone. The downside is a fast altitude gain: going from Kagbeni (2,800 m) to Lo Manthang (3,840 m) in a day is a big jump, so a night in Kagbeni or Jomsom first, and a slow first day in Lo Manthang, are important.

Mixing the two

Our favourite approach for most people is a hybrid: drive the dull, dusty road sections and walk the beautiful trail sections, such as Ghami to Dhakmar via Ghar Gompa and the Chogo La, or Tetang to Chhusang. This cuts days (and permit fees) while keeping the best of the trekking.

Horse riding is also available around Lo Manthang for side trips to Chhoser and Garphu, arranged locally through your guide or lodge.

Helicopter access

Charter helicopters fly to Lo Manthang and Muktinath, usually from Pokhara or Kathmandu with a refuelling stop. They are expensive (typically several thousand US dollars per charter for up to around five passengers) and are mostly used for festival visits, short luxury trips or evacuations. Flying straight to 3,840 m carries a high risk of altitude sickness, so it is not recommended for overnight stays without acclimatisation. Nepali operators are on the UK Air Safety List; see the safety notes below.

Remember that the Korala border crossing into Tibet (China) is not open to foreign tourists as a through route. Upper Mustang is an out-and-back trip from Jomsom or Kagbeni.

Where to stay in Mustang

Almost all accommodation is in family-run lodges and teahouses. Standards are best in Jomsom, Kagbeni, Marpha and Muktinath, where many rooms have attached bathrooms and hot showers (often solar or gas, so not always piping hot). Upper Mustang lodges are simpler. Prices below are rough nightly room rates at the time of writing and rise during festivals and peak months; meals are extra and lodges expect you to eat where you sleep.

Jomsom

Best for: practicality, flights, ATM access, and the widest choice of rooms from simple lodges to a few comfortable mid-range and upmarket hotels with heating. It is windy and functional rather than pretty.

Price bands: basic lodges roughly NPR 1,000 to 3,000 (about £6 to £17); better mid-range hotels roughly NPR 4,000 to 10,000 (about £23 to £57); the top hotels considerably more. Book ahead in October and around festivals.

Marpha

Best for: atmosphere, food and a quieter night. Lodges are in traditional stone houses, many with orchard gardens and rooftop views. It is the nicest place to stay in Lower Mustang if you do not need the airport the next morning; Jomsom is 20 minutes away.

Price bands: roughly NPR 1,000 to 4,000 (about £6 to £23) for a double room.

Kagbeni

Best for: the last night before Upper Mustang, or a characterful stop between Jomsom and Muktinath. Several lodges have good rooftop views of the village and Nilgiri, and the medieval lanes are magical in early morning.

Price bands: roughly NPR 1,500 to 5,000 (about £9 to £28).

Muktinath (Ranipauwa)

Best for: visiting the temple at first light and trekkers arriving over the Thorong La. Ranipauwa has a long strip of lodges serving pilgrims and trekkers, plus food stalls and a few bakeries. It is cold at night year-round at this height.

Price bands: roughly NPR 1,000 to 4,000 (about £6 to £23), higher during Indian pilgrim peak periods in spring and autumn.

Upper Mustang lodges

Best for: trekkers and jeep travellers inside the restricted area. Lo Manthang has a handful of lodges, some with attached bathrooms and heating; villages such as Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang have simpler teahouses with shared facilities. Wi-fi, charging and hot showers often cost extra.

Price bands: roughly NPR 1,500 to 5,000 (about £9 to £28) for a room, but on most organised trips lodging and meals are included in the package. Many Lo Manthang lodges close in winter, roughly December to February, when residents move to lower ground.

Food and drink get pricier the further north and higher you go, because supplies arrive by jeep. Budget around NPR 3,000 to 6,000 (about £17 to £34) a day per person for meals and hot drinks in Lower Mustang, and more in Upper Mustang. Carry snacks from Pokhara.

How to get to Mustang

Every route to Mustang runs through Pokhara. From Kathmandu, reach Pokhara by a 25 to 30 minute domestic flight or a six to eight hour tourist bus, then continue by plane or road to Jomsom. Times and fares below are approximate and change often.

RouteOptionTimeApprox. cost
Pokhara to JomsomFlight (Tara Air, Summit Air)About 20 minutesRoughly US$120 to 140 one way for foreigners (about £90 to £105)
Pokhara to JomsomLocal bus or shared jeep via Beni7 to 10 hoursRoughly NPR 1,500 to 3,000 per seat (about £9 to £17)
Pokhara to JomsomPrivate jeep (up to 6 to 7 people)6 to 9 hoursRoughly US$250 to 400 per vehicle
Kathmandu to JomsomDirect overnight bus15 to 18 hoursRoughly US$20
Jomsom to MuktinathShared jeep or bus1 to 1.5 hours (about 25 km)A few hundred NPR per seat; private jeep more
Jomsom to Lo ManthangJeep (permit and guide required)6 to 10 hours (about 96 km)Usually part of a tour package

Jomsom flights: an important warning

The Pokhara to Jomsom flight is one of the most spectacular in Nepal, threading between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. But it only operates in the morning, because the valley wind makes afternoon landings unsafe, and cancellations for wind and cloud are common. Always build in a spare day.

Flights have also been suspended for long periods recently: both airlines stopped the route for around two months from July 2025 for the monsoon, again over winter 2025 to 2026 (Tara Air from early December to early March), and Nepali media reported in October 2026 that Tara Air and Summit Air had suspended regular Pokhara to Jomsom services again, with no restart date given. Improved roads have cut passenger numbers. Treat the flight as a bonus if it is running, and plan for road travel by default.

By road

The road from Pokhara is paved to Beni, then follows the Kali Gandaki on a mix of new tarmac, gravel and rough sections being upgraded as part of the Beni to Jomsom to Korala highway project. A good private jeep or local bus makes it in a long day, often stopping at Tatopani or Kalopani. Monsoon landslides can block the road for hours or days, and the FCDO advises avoiding overcrowded buses and travel at night.

Getting around locally

Shared jeeps and a few buses link Jomsom, Marpha, Kagbeni and Muktinath, mostly departing in the morning; ask at the Jomsom jeep stand or your lodge. Private jeeps can be hired by the day. Walking between villages is very rewarding if you use the off-road trails. In Upper Mustang, transport is arranged by your agency, and horses can be hired locally for side trips.

Best time to visit Mustang

Mustang’s rain shadow gives it a different calendar from the rest of Nepal. Spring and autumn are best overall, but the monsoon months, when most other trekking regions are wet, are also very good for Upper Mustang. For the whole country, see our guide to the best season to travel in Nepal.

SeasonWeatherTrade-offs
Spring (March to May)Warming days, mostly clear; cold nights higher up early in the seasonExcellent for Upper Mustang and Tiji festival (May). Wind can be strong. Busy with Indian pilgrims at Muktinath.
Monsoon (June to August)Mostly dry in Upper Mustang, some showers in Lower Mustang; mild temperaturesGreen fields and barley harvest in Lo, few trekkers. The road and flights from Pokhara are the weak point: landslides south of Jomsom, frequent flight suspensions.
Autumn (September to November)Clear, stable, cool; the best mountain viewsPeak season, so book lodges and jeeps early, especially October. Apple harvest in Marpha. Cold by November.
Winter (December to February)Very cold nights, often well below freezing; snow possible; fierce windLower Mustang and Muktinath are visitable with warm gear. Upper Mustang is largely closed, with many Lo Manthang lodges shut and residents gone south. Flights have often been suspended.

Festivals worth timing a trip around

  • Tiji (Lo Manthang, usually May): a three-day masked dance festival performed by monks of Chode monastery, re-enacting the victory of the deity Dorje Jono over a demon and praying for the kingdom’s protection. Dates follow the Tibetan lunar calendar and are confirmed late; in 2026 it was held in mid-May (sources give 13 to 15 or 14 to 16 May). Lodges fill months ahead, so book early and avoid non-refundable flights until dates are fixed.
  • Yartung (Muktinath and Lower Mustang, around the August full moon): a lively harvest festival with horse racing, archery, dancing and gatherings of locals in traditional dress.
  • Dashain and Tihar (usually October and November): Nepal’s biggest national festivals. Domestic travel is busy, and some lodges and transport book out.

Other local festivals in Kagbeni and Lo, such as Dhajyang in spring, follow the lunar calendar too. Ask your agency what falls during your dates.

Mustang itineraries

These sample plans start and end in Pokhara. Add travel days from Kathmandu either side, plus at least one spare day for flight delays or road problems.

4 days: Lower Mustang highlights

  1. Day 1: Fly (if running) or drive Pokhara to Jomsom. Afternoon walk to Marpha, or a short wander in Jomsom if the drive was long. Overnight Marpha or Jomsom.
  2. Day 2: Morning acclimatisation walk to Thini and Dhumba Lake. Afternoon jeep or walk to Kagbeni. Overnight Kagbeni.
  3. Day 3: Early jeep or a four to five hour walk via Jhong to Muktinath. Visit the temple. Overnight Ranipauwa, or drive back to Jomsom to sleep lower.
  4. Day 4: Return to Jomsom and fly or drive to Pokhara.

No restricted permit needed; ACAP only.

6 days: Lower Mustang on foot

  1. Day 1: Pokhara to Jomsom by road, overnight Jomsom.
  2. Day 2: Jomsom to Marpha via Chhairo, back via the riverside trail. Overnight Marpha.
  3. Day 3: Marpha to Kagbeni on the old trail via Jomsom (five to six hours). Overnight Kagbeni.
  4. Day 4: Kagbeni to Muktinath via Jhong (four to five hours). Overnight Ranipauwa.
  5. Day 5: Temple at dawn, then walk down via Lubra to Jomsom (five to six hours).
  6. Day 6: Jomsom to Pokhara.

A great short trek for people who have done other treks from Pokhara and want a change of scenery.

8 days: Upper Mustang by jeep

  1. Day 1: Pokhara to Jomsom or Tatopani by jeep.
  2. Day 2: On to Kagbeni, visiting Marpha on the way. Overnight Kagbeni to acclimatise.
  3. Day 3: Enter the restricted area; drive via Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang to Lo Manthang.
  4. Day 4: Lo Manthang monasteries and palace area, walk the town wall.
  5. Day 5: Day trip to Chhoser (Jhong Cave) and Garphu by jeep or horse.
  6. Day 6: Return south via Dhakmar and Ghar Gompa. Overnight Ghami or Kagbeni.
  7. Day 7: Kagbeni or Jomsom to Pokhara.
  8. Day 8: Spare day in Pokhara.

About four to five days inside the zone, so roughly US$200 to 250 in permit fees.

15 days: Upper Mustang trek

  1. Days 1 to 2: Pokhara to Jomsom, then Kagbeni.
  2. Day 3: Kagbeni to Chele via Chhusang.
  3. Day 4: Chele to Syangboche.
  4. Day 5: Syangboche to Ghami via Nyi La.
  5. Day 6: Ghami to Tsarang.
  6. Day 7: Tsarang to Lo Manthang.
  7. Days 8 to 9: Lo Manthang and Chhoser caves.
  8. Day 10: Lo Manthang to Dhakmar via the Chogo La and Ghar Gompa.
  9. Day 11: Dhakmar to Ghiling.
  10. Day 12: Ghiling to Chhusang.
  11. Day 13: Chhusang to Jomsom.
  12. Days 14 to 15: Jomsom to Pokhara, plus a spare day.

About 10 days inside the zone, roughly US$500 in permit fees.

Practical tips for Mustang

For general Nepal preparation, read our things to know before travelling to Nepal. These are the points that matter most for Mustang.

Permits and fees

  • Lower Mustang (Jomsom, Marpha, Kagbeni, Muktinath): ACAP, NPR 3,000 (about £17) for non-SAARC foreigners, NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals; children under 10 exempt. Buy it in advance in Kathmandu or Pokhara or online; buying at a checkpoint costs double.
  • Upper Mustang (north of Kagbeni): ACAP plus the restricted area permit at US$50 per person per day, through a registered agency with a licensed guide.
  • Guides in the Annapurna area: since April 2023 the Nepal Tourism Board has required foreign trekkers in protected areas to use a licensed guide, and the FCDO repeats this. Enforcement for Lower Mustang road travellers has varied; ask your agency for the current position.

Carry your permits and passport at all times; they are checked at Jomsom, Kagbeni and other points.

Money and ATMs

Jomsom has banks and ATMs, but they can run out of cash or go offline, and foreign card acceptance is not guaranteed. There are no reliable ATMs in Upper Mustang, including Lo Manthang, and no exchange counters in the district. Withdraw or change enough Nepali rupees in Kathmandu or Pokhara for the whole trip, in small notes. Card payments are rare outside a few Jomsom hotels.

SIM cards and internet

Buy a local SIM from Nepal Telecom (NTC) or Ncell in Kathmandu or Pokhara with your passport. Both work in Jomsom and along the main valley, but Nepal Telecom generally has the better coverage in Upper Mustang, where signal is patchy. Most lodges have wi-fi, often slow and sometimes charged extra. Download offline maps before you go.

Safety and the current situation

Nepal saw deadly anti-government protests in Kathmandu in September 2025, which led to an interim government; elections in March 2026 produced a new government. The FCDO notes that protests and strikes can still flare up at short notice and disrupt transport, so avoid demonstrations and follow local media. Mustang itself has been calm.

The bigger practical risks in Mustang are roads, landslides, weather and altitude. The FCDO warns of further flooding and landslide risk after major floods in August 2026, and notes that no Nepali airline currently meets international safety standards for the UK Air Safety List. Always check the latest FCDO travel advice for Nepal before travelling, and read our safety tips for trekking in Nepal.

Altitude and health

Flying from Pokhara (about 820 m) to Jomsom (about 2,720 m) in 20 minutes, then heading up to Muktinath or Lo Manthang at over 3,700 m, is a rapid ascent. Spend a night or two in Jomsom, Marpha or Kagbeni before going higher, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol early on and descend if headache, nausea or breathlessness get worse.

The sun is intense and the air very dry: bring high-factor sunscreen, lip balm, sunglasses and a buff for the dust. Health facilities beyond Jomsom are basic. Make sure your travel insurance covers trekking to at least 4,500 m and helicopter evacuation; checkpoints in Upper Mustang may ask for proof.

Etiquette and dress

Mustang is deeply religious. Walk clockwise around chortens, mani walls and monasteries, do not touch or point at altars, and remove shoes and hats inside shrines. Ask before photographing people, rituals or monastery interiors; some charge for or forbid photography inside. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, especially at Muktinath. A small donation at monasteries is appreciated. Our guide to culture in Nepal covers more.

Packing for wind and cold

Even in summer, nights above 3,000 m are cold. Bring a warm down jacket, fleece, thermal base layers, a windproof shell, warm hat and gloves, and a sleeping bag rated to around minus 10 degrees C for spring, autumn or Upper Mustang. Good walking boots, a headtorch, water purification and a power bank are essential. Gear is easy and cheap to buy or rent in Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Responsible travel

Water and firewood are scarce in this desert landscape. Use purification tablets or a filter rather than buying plastic bottles, take your rubbish out with you, and keep showers short. Buy local produce such as apples, dried fruit and handicrafts directly from villagers. Do not buy antiques, religious objects or cave artefacts, and never enter caves or ruins your guide says are off-limits.

What to combine with Mustang

Mustang slots naturally into a wider Nepal trip, because you pass through Pokhara both ways.

  • Pokhara: lakeside rest days, paragliding and the starting point for your trip; see our Pokhara guide.
  • Annapurna Base Camp or Annapurna Circuit: the Circuit crosses the Thorong La (about 5,416 m) and descends straight into Muktinath, so Lower Mustang makes a natural finish. For a classic mountain amphitheatre instead, look at our Annapurna Base Camp Trek.
  • Kathmandu Valley: temples, stupas and old royal squares before or after; see our Kathmandu guide.
  • Chitwan: jungle and wildlife in the lowlands, a contrast to Mustang’s desert; see our Chitwan guide.
  • Lumbini: the birthplace of the Buddha, a fitting pairing with Mustang’s Buddhist heritage; see our Lumbini guide.
  • Everest region: for the big mountains, the Everest Base Camp Trek is a separate trip from Kathmandu.

Ready to plan Mustang? Get Lost Forever can arrange permits, licensed guides, jeeps and lodges for Lower or Upper Mustang, and combine it with Pokhara, Annapurna or Chitwan. Tell us your dates and interests on our plan your trip page, or send a booking inquiry.

Frequently asked questions about Mustang

For foreign nationals the restricted area permit costs US$50 per person per day spent inside the restricted zone north of Kagbeni, replacing the old US$500 flat fee for 10 days. You also need the ACAP (NPR 3,000, about £17). Fees change, so confirm the exact total with your agency before booking.

No. The restricted area permit is only issued through a registered Nepali agency, and a licensed guide must accompany you. Since March 2026 solo travellers can reportedly get the permit without a second trekker, but the guide is still compulsory.

No restricted permit is needed for Jomsom, Marpha, Kagbeni or Muktinath. You need the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit. Check with your agency whether a guide or TIMS card is required for your exact route.

Yes. A jeep road runs from Jomsom to Lo Manthang, about 96 km and usually six to ten hours. Jeep tours from Pokhara take around 7 to 9 days, with the same permit and guide rules as trekking.

Not reliably. The route has been suspended for long periods in 2025 and 2026, including a suspension reported in October 2026, and it operates only in the morning when it does run. Check with your agency close to departure and plan to travel by road if needed.

Allow 4 to 6 days from Pokhara for Lower Mustang, 7 to 9 days for an Upper Mustang jeep tour and 14 to 17 days for the full Upper Mustang trek. Add a spare day for weather or road delays.

Tiji is held in Lo Manthang over three days, usually in May, on dates set by the Tibetan lunar calendar. In 2026 it took place in mid-May. Dates for future years are confirmed late, so check with your agency before booking flights, and reserve lodges early.

It is moderate. There are no technical sections and the highest point on the classic loop is the Chogo La at around 4,280 m, but you walk five to seven hours a day on dry, exposed and windy terrain at 3,000 to 4,000 m. Reasonable fitness and good acclimatisation are the keys.

Yes. Upper Mustang lies in the rain shadow and stays mostly dry from June to August. The weak point is getting there: landslides can block the road south of Jomsom and flights are often suspended, so allow extra days.

Jomsom has ATMs, but they are not always reliable. There are no dependable ATMs in Upper Mustang or Lo Manthang. Bring enough Nepali rupees from Kathmandu or Pokhara.

Muktinath temple stands at roughly 3,700 to 3,800 m, depending on the source and exact point measured. Spend a night in Jomsom or Kagbeni first to reduce the risk of altitude sickness.

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