Plan my trek
Plan my trek
About 2,170 m
Annapurna Sanctuary
Annapurna Base Camp
2–3 hrs from Jhinu
Oct–Nov, Mar–Apr
Permits checked here
Chhomrong (also spelt Chomrong) is a Gurung village spread down a steep spur above the Chhomrong Khola, on the west side of the Modi Khola valley. The upper part of the village sits at around 2,170 m, and the lodges step down the hillside for well over 200 m to the river. It is the last permanent settlement on the way into the Annapurna Sanctuary, the high glacial basin ringed by peaks that holds Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 m).
That position makes Chhomrong the gateway to the Sanctuary. Every trekker heading to ABC passes through it, usually on day 2 or 3 going up and again near the end of the trek coming down. It is where the ACAP checkpoint records who goes in and out, where you stock up on snacks and supplies, and often the last place with real comforts before the simple seasonal lodges higher up.
Chhomrong faces straight up the valley. Annapurna South (7,219 m) rises directly above the village, with Hiunchuli (6,441 m) beside it and the pyramid of Machhapuchhre (6,993 m) across the Modi Khola to the north-east. The mountains look close enough to touch, and on clear evenings the light on Annapurna South is one of the great sights of the trek. Annapurna I itself is hidden behind the Sanctuary walls until you are much higher.
The village is home to a few hundred people, mostly Gurung, who farm the terraces and run the lodges. Gurung families from Chhomrong also play a large part in running lodges higher up the valley, and the village’s tourism management committee is involved in setting rules and prices along the Sanctuary trail. Gurung beliefs about the sacred Sanctuary are part of daily life here: higher up the valley, local custom does not allow meat to be sold, and many lodges ask trekkers to respect that.
The Sanctuary was long considered sacred by the Gurung and was largely closed to outsiders. The first outsider known to enter it was Colonel Jimmy Roberts in 1956, scouting a route for the 1957 Machhapuchhre expedition, and he set off up the gorge from Chhomrong. Lodges started appearing here in the 1970s as trekking took off, and Chhomrong has grown into a substantial lodge village while keeping its Gurung character.
The defining feature is the stone staircase. Chhomrong is built on stairs: paths of laid stone run from the top of the ridge, past lodges, bakeries and small fields, down to the suspension bridge over the Chhomrong Khola, and up the other side towards Sinuwa. Arriving tired at the top is one thing; realising that the onward trail starts by dropping all the way down, and that you will climb back up on your return, is another. The steps are what most people remember. But there are rewards too: a hot shower, apple pie, real coffee and that view.
Most trekkers spend just one night in Chhomrong each way, but there is enough here to fill a late afternoon and an early morning, and a few side trips justify a rest day. Prices are approximate and payable in cash.
The main event. Annapurna South and Hiunchuli fill the sky above the village, and the late-afternoon and dawn light can be spectacular, especially from October to February. The upper lodges, at the top of the ridge, have the widest view.
Mornings are usually clearest; afternoon cloud often rolls up the valley in spring and in the monsoon. Get up before 6 am in autumn, take a warm layer and a hot drink to a terrace, and allow 30 to 45 minutes. It costs nothing and needs no climb.
Chhomrong is famous on the trail for its bakeries and cafés. Apple pie and chocolate cake are the traditional treats, and at least one café roasts its own coffee. After days of dal bhat, they are a real pleasure, and it is a tradition to stop on the way up and again on the way back down.
Expect to pay a few hundred rupees for a slice of cake and a coffee, more than in Pokhara because everything is carried up by porter or mule. Allow an hour and enjoy the view while you eat.
Chhomrong has the last proper shops on the trail, selling chocolate, biscuits, toilet paper, batteries, sun cream and basic trekking gear. Prices rise steeply above here, and choice shrinks, so snacks bought in Chhomrong can be noticeably cheaper than higher up.
It is also the place to repair kit, buy gloves or a hat you forgot, and top up on cash-only essentials. Take your rubbish back down with you, especially batteries and wrappers; there are no disposal facilities in the upper valley.
Even if your legs complain, the walk down through the village is worth doing slowly. Past the upper lodges you pass family houses, small fields, a school and prayer flags, with Annapurna South framed between the rooftops. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to descend from the top of the village to the bridge over the Chhomrong Khola, losing around 200 to 300 m.
Poles help a lot on the descent. In the wet, the stone steps can be slippery; watch for mules and porters, and step to the uphill side to let them pass.
Below Chhomrong, at about 1,780 m, Jhinu Danda is a cluster of lodges above natural hot springs on the bank of the Modi Khola. The pools are about 15 to 20 minutes’ walk down from the lodges, and 25 to 30 minutes back up. Water temperature is around 35 to 40°C.
A community fee of around NPR 150 to 300 (£1 to £2) is charged, and the pools are typically open from early morning to early evening. Go early or mid-afternoon to avoid the late-afternoon crowd. Bring swimwear and a towel. Most people visit on the way down from ABC, when sore legs appreciate it most.
Chhomrong is not a museum village like Ghandruk, but daily Gurung life goes on around the lodges. You will see women weaving and carrying fodder, millet and maize drying on rooftops, and small shrines and prayer flags along the paths. A Buddhist stupa has been built lower in the village.
Ask your guide or lodge owner about local customs and the significance of the Sanctuary. Many lodge families have relatives who served in the British or Indian Gurkha regiments, and are happy to talk about it over tea.
If you have a spare day, walking from Chhomrong to Ghandruk is a good way to finish the ABC trek. The route drops to the Kimrong Khola and climbs over the ridge to Ghandruk in about 5 to 6 hours, with views back up the valley.
Ghandruk has museums, a large old village of stone houses and road access to Pokhara. The Kimrong Khola bridge was washed away in July 2026 and replaced with a temporary crossing; check the current route before you set off.
At 2,170 m, Chhomrong is too low for altitude sickness to be a real concern, but it is a sensible place for a rest day if you are struggling on the steps, have blisters or are waiting for weather. A short walk up the ridge above the village gives wider views and gentle exercise.
Use the time to dry clothes, charge batteries and repack your bag. Many people find the trek easier if they pace themselves here rather than pushing straight on to Bamboo or Dovan.
On the Annapurna Base Camp trek, Chhomrong is the hinge between the lower, inhabited hills and the gorge of the Modi Khola that leads into the Sanctuary. You reach it on day 2 or 3 of the walk and pass through again on day 6 to 8, depending on your route. It is not an acclimatisation stop, but it is a natural place to slow down, because the stages above it are long and steep.
| Leg | Time (approx.) | Altitude change | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jhinu Danda to Chhomrong | 2–3 hours up (1.5–2 down) | About +400 m | Steep stone steps; the shortest approach from the road. |
| Ghandruk to Chhomrong | 5–6 hours | Down to Kimrong Khola (about 1,800 m), then up to about 2,170 m | Kimrong bridge replaced by a temporary crossing after July 2026. |
| Tadapani to Chhomrong (Poon Hill–ABC link) | 5–6 hours | Down from about 2,630 m to the Kimrong Khola, then up | Used on Poon Hill and ABC combination treks. |
| Chhomrong to Sinuwa | 2–3 hours | Down to the Chhomrong Khola, then up to about 2,340 m | The famous staircase: down, then up again. |
| Chhomrong to Bamboo | 4–5 hours | About +140 m overall, but with much more up and down | Typical next stop; Dovan (about 2,600 m) for stronger walkers. |
Altitudes vary by tens of metres between sources. Walking times are for an average trekker with stops.
The fastest way in is by jeep from Pokhara to the road head near Jhinu Danda (around Siwai or the New Bridge area), then a steep walk up to Chhomrong. Many shorter ABC itineraries use this to reach Chhomrong on day 1 or 2.
The classic route via Ghandruk is longer but more varied, with a night in a large Gurung village and a good warm-up for the legs.
From Chhomrong, the trail drops to the Chhomrong Khola and climbs to Sinuwa, then follows the Modi Khola gorge through bamboo and rhododendron forest to Bamboo, Dovan, Himalaya and Deurali. The lodges are seasonal and owned by local families. From Deurali (about 3,230 m) you climb to Machhapuchhre Base Camp (about 3,700 m) and ABC.
Above Deurali there is avalanche risk in late winter and spring; follow local advice on which side of the valley to walk.
On the return, most people reach Chhomrong from Bamboo or Dovan, facing the climb up the staircase from the Chhomrong Khola late in a long day. From there you can descend to Jhinu Danda for the hot springs and a jeep, or walk out via Ghandruk, Landruk or Tadapani.
A night in Chhomrong on the way down is a good time to celebrate: hot shower, cake and the last of the big views.
Chhomrong has a dozen or more family-run lodges spread from the top of the ridge to the lower village. Standards are good for a trail village: twin rooms, shared or sometimes attached bathrooms, a warm dining room and long menus. Prices on the Sanctuary trail are coordinated locally and rise the higher you go. Figures below are typical at the time of writing.
The lodges at the top of the ridge have the best views of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre, and you reach them first when coming from Ghandruk or Tadapani. The trade-off is that you start the next morning with the longest descent to the Chhomrong Khola, and finish the return with the longest climb.
Suits: photographers and anyone who wants the view from their door.
Lodges further down are closer to the bakeries, shops and the ACAP checkpoint, and save you some steps the next morning. Views are still good from most terraces. If you are arriving from Jhinu Danda, these are the first lodges you reach.
Suits: trekkers who prefer to rest their legs, and anyone continuing early to Bamboo or Dovan.
Rooms: roughly NPR 500 to 1,000 (about £3 to £6) a night for a twin room, sometimes less if you eat at the lodge.
Meals: dal bhat around NPR 520 to 650 (£3 to £4), with refills; breakfasts and noodle dishes a little cheaper. Prices are higher at Bamboo and beyond, reaching around NPR 800 to 950 for dal bhat at ABC.
Extras: hot shower around NPR 100 to 200, charging around NPR 100 to 200 per device, Wi-Fi around NPR 200 to 300.
Most lodges have solar or gas hot showers, charging in the dining room or rooms, and Wi-Fi. Mobile signal is generally good, with 4G on Nepal Telecom in much of the village. Some lodges have electric blankets in winter. Rooms are unheated, so a sleeping bag rated to around -5°C is useful for the whole trek.
From Chhomrong up, the menus become largely vegetarian, in keeping with the sacred status of the Sanctuary. Eggs are widely available.
Booking: in October, November and April, lodges fill up. Guides usually phone ahead each morning to reserve rooms, and this matters more above Chhomrong, where lodge numbers are limited. In quieter months, walk-in rooms are normally easy to find.
There is no road into Chhomrong at the time of writing: you walk in. The nearest road heads are below Jhinu Danda in the Modi Khola valley and at Ghandruk. All routes start in Pokhara, which is a 25 to 30-minute flight or a 6 to 9-hour bus ride from Kathmandu.
| Route | Transport | Time | Approximate cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pokhara to the Jhinu Danda road head | Private jeep | 3–4 hours | Around NPR 7,000–7,500 per vehicle (about £40–£43) |
| Jhinu Danda to Chhomrong | On foot | 2–3 hours | Free (ACAP permit needed) |
| Pokhara to Ghandruk | Private jeep, shared jeep or bus | 2.5–4 hours | NPR 6,000–10,000 private; NPR 450–1,000 per seat |
| Ghandruk to Chhomrong | On foot | 5–6 hours | Free |
| Nayapul to Chhomrong (classic) | On foot via Ghandruk | 2 days | Bus to Nayapul NPR 200–400 |
Monsoon floods on the Modi Khola and Kimrong Khola in July and August 2026 damaged the Nayapul–Birethanti–Ghandruk road and swept away the Kimrong Khola suspension bridge between Ghandruk and Chhomrong. The road reopened fully on 22 September 2026, and by early October a temporary crossing had reopened the Ghandruk–Chhomrong trail. The local ward chairman told The Himalayan Times there was “no problem above Ghandruk”, and around 300 trekkers a day were reaching ABC. Conditions can change quickly after heavy rain, so ask your guide about the latest situation before you set off.
Chhomrong is open all year, but the trek above it depends heavily on season. Our best season to travel in Nepal guide has the bigger picture; here is what to expect at around 2,170 m and above.
| Months | Conditions at Chhomrong | Above Chhomrong |
|---|---|---|
| October–November | Clear skies, mild days, cold nights | Best season for ABC; busiest trails and full lodges. |
| December–February | Cold, often clear; frost on steps | Snow possible above Deurali; avalanche risk on parts of the gorge, especially late winter. |
| March–April | Warm, rhododendrons in bloom | Popular; afternoon cloud, and avalanche risk above Deurali after heavy snow. |
| May | Warm and hazy, pre-monsoon showers | Quieter; views less reliable. |
| June–September | Monsoon: rain, cloud, leeches | Slippery trails, landslides and road damage, as in 2026; views rare. |
Chhomrong has no major festival of its own that is widely timed by trekkers, but Gurung families celebrate Tamu Lhosar (usually around late December) and Nepal’s big autumn festivals, Dashain and Tihar (usually October or November). During these, many Nepali trekkers head to ABC and lodges get busier; some staff may also go home to their families. Dates follow the lunar calendar, so check them for your year.
Chhomrong is the last stop with good facilities before the Sanctuary, so treat it as your final check before heading higher. Rules and fees change, so confirm the details before you go.
Chhomrong has an ACAP checkpoint where trekkers register going in and out of the Sanctuary. Keep your ACAP permit (NPR 3,000, about £17, including tax; NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals; under-10s free) and passport where you can reach them. Buy the permit in Kathmandu, Pokhara or online through NTNC’s e-permit system: if you arrive without one, it costs double at the checkpoint.
Sources disagree on whether a TIMS card is checked on the Annapurna trails; ask your agency.
Since April 2023, Nepal’s rules require foreign trekkers in national parks and conservation areas to trek with a licensed guide arranged through a registered agency, and the UK FCDO advises that independent trekkers use a guide or porter. Enforcement on the Annapurna trails has been reported as uneven, but plan on a guide: above Chhomrong, they also know the avalanche-prone sections and which lodges have room.
Chhomrong itself is low, but ABC is at 4,130 m, and most people reach it within two or three days of leaving Chhomrong. Climb steadily, drink plenty, and know the signs of altitude sickness: a worsening headache, nausea, dizziness and breathlessness at rest. The treatment is to descend. Chhomrong has a small health post, and the rural municipality opened a first-aid centre at Machhapuchhre Base Camp in 2026. Make sure your insurance covers trekking to at least 4,500 m and helicopter evacuation; read our guide on travel insurance for trekking.
There is no ATM you can rely on in Chhomrong. Banks have opened branchless banking units in the village for local customers, but bring all the cash you need from Pokhara. Budget roughly NPR 4,000 to 6,000 (£23 to £34) per person per day in Chhomrong for room, meals and extras, rising higher up. Cards are rarely accepted.
Do not drink untreated tap or stream water. Use a filter, UV purifier or purification tablets, or buy refills from filtered water stations where available. Plastic bottles are discouraged in the conservation area, and carrying one more bottle up the steps is the last thing your porter needs.
The Annapurna Sanctuary is sacred to the Gurung. Above Chhomrong, local custom means lodges do not sell meat, and you should not bring meat into the Sanctuary. If you want chicken or buffalo, eat it in Chhomrong or lower down. Eggs are widely available, and vegetarian food is plentiful.
The main risks around Chhomrong are slips on wet steps, monsoon landslides and, higher up, avalanches between Deurali and Machhapuchhre Base Camp after heavy snow. Do not walk the gorge alone, start early, and follow your guide’s advice on conditions. The UK FCDO does not advise against travel to Nepal; its advice (last updated 1 October 2026 at the time of writing) highlights flood and landslide risk after the August 2026 floods and warns that protests can start at short notice, following the September 2025 unrest in Kathmandu and the March 2026 elections. Check the latest FCDO advice before you go and read our safety tips for trekking in Nepal.
Dress modestly in the village and ask before photographing people. Give way to mules and porters on the steps, always on the uphill side. Carry your rubbish down, including batteries and plastic, and use lodge toilets. Tip guides and porters fairly at the end of the trek. Our guide to culture in Nepal explains local customs in more detail.
Chhomrong is a crossroads for the southern Annapurna Region, so it is easy to combine with other villages and treks.
Two or three days’ walk up the Modi Khola gorge, Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 m) sits in the heart of the Sanctuary, surrounded by Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhre. Read our guide to Annapurna Base Camp, or join our Annapurna Base Camp trek.
A day’s walk south, Ghandruk is a large Gurung village with museums, old stone lanes and road access to Pokhara. It is the most common first or last night on the ABC trek.
Via Tadapani, you can link Chhomrong with Ghorepani and the Poon Hill sunrise. Combining Poon Hill and ABC makes a varied trek of around 10 to 12 days. See our Poon Hill trek guide.
Jhinu Danda, below Chhomrong, has the hot springs and the nearest road head. Across the Modi Khola, Landruk is on the route via Tolka and Dhampus back to Phedi and Pokhara, a good way to finish if you want a gentler walk out.
Back in Pokhara, Lakeside is the place to recover after your trek, with comfortable hotels, massages and lake views. For more trekking ideas in the area, see our list of the best treks from Pokhara.
Thinking about Annapurna Base Camp, or a gentler trek with a night in Chhomrong for the views? Tell us your dates, fitness and interests, and we will build a trip that suits you. Plan your trip with Get Lost Forever.
Chhomrong is a Gurung village in Kaski District, about two days’ walk from the roads north of Pokhara. It lies on the west side of the Modi Khola valley at around 2,170 m, and is the last permanent village before the Annapurna Sanctuary.
The upper village is at about 2,170 m. The lodges spread down the hillside to the Chhomrong Khola, which is a couple of hundred metres lower. Altitude sickness is not usually a concern at this height.
There is no reliable official count. The village is built on long stone staircases, and the descent to the Chhomrong Khola and climb to Sinuwa involve thousands of steps. Trekkers’ figures vary widely, so treat any number you hear as a rough estimate.
The quickest way is a jeep from Pokhara to the road head near Jhinu Danda (3 to 4 hours), then a 2 to 3-hour walk up. Alternatively, drive to Ghandruk and walk 5 to 6 hours to Chhomrong. There is no road into Chhomrong itself.
Yes. Trekkers register their ACAP permit at the Chhomrong checkpoint going in and out of the Annapurna Sanctuary. Carry your permit and passport. If you arrive without a permit, it is charged at double the normal fee.
Jhinu Danda is about 1.5 to 2 hours’ walk down from Chhomrong, and the hot pools are another 15 to 20 minutes below the lodges. A community fee of around NPR 150 to 300 is charged. Allow 2 to 3 hours to walk back up to Chhomrong.
Yes, Chhomrong lodges serve meat. Above Chhomrong, in the sacred Annapurna Sanctuary, local custom means meat is not sold, and you should not bring it in. Eggs are available all the way up.
Yes. Most lodges have Wi-Fi for a small fee, and mobile coverage is generally good, with 4G on Nepal Telecom. Signal and Wi-Fi become less reliable higher up the valley.
No reliable ATM for visitors. Bring all the cash you will need for the trek from Pokhara, in Nepali rupees.
Usually day 2 or 3 of the walk going up, depending on whether you start from Jhinu Danda or Ghandruk, and again around day 6 to 8 on the way down. Many itineraries spend two nights here in total.
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