Plan my trek
Plan my trek
Dolpa, Karnali
Kang La, c. 5,350 m
Phoksundo, Upper Dolpo
Restricted area + park
May–Oct (varies)
Juphal airstrip
Dolpo (the district is officially spelled Dolpa) is the high, remote north of Karnali Province in mid-western Nepal. It is the largest district in the country, yet it has only a few tens of thousands of people, one small airstrip at Juphal and a single rough road that is cut off for part of the year. Most visitors arrive on foot, and very few arrive at all.
That remoteness is the point. Dolpo is where Peter Matthiessen walked for The Snow Leopard in 1973 and where Eric Valli filmed Himalaya (released in some countries as Caravan). The landscapes have changed little since: yak caravans, barley fields, whitewashed gompas clinging to cliffs and wide, wind-scoured valleys that look and feel like Tibet.
Picture Dolpo as two worlds separated by a wall of mountains. Lower Dolpo lies south of the main Himalayan crest, around the district headquarters of Dunai on the Thuli Bheri river. Here are forested gorges, terraced villages of Thakuri, Magar and other hill peoples, and the trail up the Suli Gad valley to Phoksundo Lake. To the east, the Tarap valley runs north from Tarakot to Do Tarap, a high Buddhist and Bon basin.
Upper Dolpo lies north of the Kanjiroba Himal and the Kang La pass, in the rain shadow of the Dhaulagiri and Kanjiroba ranges. It is a trans-Himalayan plateau of valleys above 3,800 m, with Shey Gompa, Saldang, Namgung, Tinje and Chharka as its main settlements, running up to the Tibetan border. Mustang lies to the east, Mugu and Jumla to the west and north-west, and Rukum and Jajarkot to the south.
Much of the region sits inside Shey Phoksundo National Park (established 1984, about 3,555 sq km), Nepal’s largest national park and its only trans-Himalayan one. Its centrepiece is Phoksundo Lake, a deep turquoise lake at roughly 3,600 m that is also a Ramsar wetland site. The park is home to snow leopard, blue sheep (bharal), Himalayan wolf, musk deer and Himalayan black bear.
Dolpo is not a good first trek. Logistics are complex, flights are weather-dependent, facilities are basic, rescue is slow and Upper Dolpo involves several days above 4,500 m.
Compared with the Everest region or the Annapurna region, Dolpo has a fraction of the visitors, few lodges and no road-side comforts. It is closest in spirit to Upper Mustang, its eastern neighbour: both are Tibetan-influenced rain-shadow lands. Mustang now has a road, lodges and cheaper permits, while Upper Dolpo still has a high permit fee, no road through the heart of the region and largely camping-only trekking. If you want the most remote, least developed trek Nepal still offers, Upper Dolpo is the answer.
The big sights in Dolpo are spread across long valleys. Lower Dolpo’s highlights can be seen on a two-week trip; most of the rest need an Upper Dolpo expedition.
Nepal’s deepest lake is the reason most people come to Dolpo. It sits at roughly 3,600 m behind a natural dam formed by an ancient landslide, is around 5 km long and changes colour from turquoise to deep indigo with the light. Surveys have measured a maximum depth of about 136 to 145 m. Spend at least one full day here: walk the shore to the Bon gompa on its eastern side, climb a little above Ringmo for the classic view, and come back for evening light. The lake is sacred to local Bon and Buddhist communities, so swimming and boating are not appropriate.
Below Ringmo, the lake drains over a waterfall of around 160 m, one of the tallest in Nepal. The trail from Chhepka and Rechi climbs steeply past it on the final day to the lake, with the best view from a ridge just before Ringmo. Allow time for photographs; the climb is hard work at around 3,500 m. In autumn the water is lower but clearer; in late spring it can be impressive with snowmelt.
Ringmo (also called Tsowa) is a stone village of flat-roofed houses and chortens at the southern end of the lake. A short walk along the shore brings you to the Thasung Tsholing Gompa, a Bon monastery whose community follows Nepal’s pre-Buddhist tradition. Walk around chortens and mani walls anticlockwise here: in Bon, the direction is reversed. Ask your guide before entering, leave a small donation and do not photograph inside without permission.
The pass between Phoksundo and Shey Gompa is the gateway to Upper Dolpo and usually the highest point of the classic trek, at roughly 5,350 m (figures vary between sources). Getting there means following the dramatic ledge trail along the lake’s western shore, made famous in Himalaya, then camping in the Phoksundo Khola valley. Expect a long, steep pull on scree and sometimes snow, with huge views back to the Kanjiroba peaks. Not for the unacclimatised.
Shey Gompa, at roughly 4,350 to 4,400 m, is the spiritual heart of Upper Dolpo and the goal of Matthiessen’s walk. The monastery is associated with the Kagyu school and dates back to the 11th to 12th centuries. Above it rises Shey Ribo Drukdra, the Crystal Mountain, a pilgrimage peak circled on a kora by Dolpo people. Plan a rest day here to walk to Tsakhang Gompa, a cliff hermitage a few hours away. Every 12 years, in the Tibetan dragon year, a large Shey festival draws pilgrims; the last was in 2024.
Saldang is the largest village in Upper Dolpo, a spread of houses, fields and gompas on a terrace above the Nankhang river at around 3,800 m. From the high trail you see the whole valley at once: golden barley in late summer, yak herds and houses with firewood stacked on the roofs. It is a good place to see daily life, including traditional yak caravans in the trading season. Walk down to nearby gompas with your guide and allow a night here.
On the way between Shey and Saldang, the small red gompa of Namgung is built into a cave in a cliff above its village. It is one of the most photographed buildings in Upper Dolpo. The detour is short, but entry depends on whether the caretaker is around; your guide can ask. A donation is customary.
Do Tarap (around 4,000 to 4,100 m) is the main village of the Tarap valley, a wide basin of Buddhist and Bon communities. It is visited on both the Lower Dolpo Circuit and the end of many Upper Dolpo treks. Highlights include several gompas and the large chorten complex, plus the Crystal Mountain School, which educates local children. Below Do, the Tarap Khola gorge drops dramatically towards Tarakot through juniper and then pine forest.
The two passes between Phoksundo and Do Tarap make the Lower Dolpo Circuit one of the finest shorter high-pass treks in Nepal. Numa La (around 5,190 m) and Baga La (around 5,070 m) give views across to Dhaulagiri and the Kanjiroba range. Neither side has villages, so you camp between them. Crossings are best in autumn; snow can close them from late November to spring.
Tarakot (around 2,300 m) is an old fortified village above the confluence of the Tarap Khola and Thuli Bheri, east of Dunai. Its name refers to a former dzong (fort), and its houses climb the hill in tiers. Most Lower Dolpo trekkers pass through on the way to or from the Tarap valley. It is a good place for a short walk around the village and a first sense of Dolpo life away from the district headquarters.
Blue sheep are common on the slopes around Shey, Saldang and the passes, often in big herds. A study in 2019 to 2022 recorded around 90 snow leopards in the park, but sightings are extremely rare; look for tracks and scrapes with your guide. You may also see Himalayan griffons, lammergeiers, marmots and pikas. Keep a respectful distance, never feed wildlife and bring binoculars.
Dolpo’s settlements are small, far apart and mostly without the lodge strips you find in Everest or Annapurna. Altitudes are approximate; sources vary by 50 to 150 m. We do not yet have separate guides to Dolpo villages, so everything you need is summarised here.
Juphal is a village of stone houses and fields above the Thuli Bheri valley, with Dolpo’s only airstrip. Almost every trek starts and ends here. There are a few simple lodges and shops near the runway where groups wait for flights, which are weather-dependent and often delayed. From the airstrip the trail drops through fields and walnut trees to the river, then follows it to Dunai in around three hours. On the way out, plan to sleep in Juphal before an early flight.
Dunai, the district headquarters, is a long bazaar town on the Thuli Bheri. It has government offices, a police post where restricted area permits are checked, basic hotels, shops, a hospital and some banking. It is now linked by road to the south via the Bheri Corridor, so you will see jeeps and tractors. Treks to Phoksundo and the Lower Dolpo Circuit both pass through, and it is the last place to buy simple supplies or charge devices reliably.
A historic fort village a few hours east of Dunai, at the mouth of the Tarap valley. Tarakot is on the Lower Dolpo Circuit and on many Upper Dolpo treks that exit via Do Tarap. Accommodation is limited to basic homestays, lodges or camping beside the river. It is a pleasant, lower-altitude stop with apricot and walnut trees, and a good place to see the mix of Hindu and Buddhist cultures that marks Lower Dolpo.
Chhepka is a small settlement in the Suli Gad valley, a typical first or second night on the way to Phoksundo. The valley here is forested and narrow, with walnut, pine and birch. Basic lodges and camping places exist, and the park office at Sulighat, between Dunai and Chhepka, checks national park permits. From Chhepka it is usually one more day, via Rechi or Amchi Hospital, to the steep climb past Phoksundo Falls.
Ringmo is the stone village at the southern tip of Phoksundo Lake and the goal of the Phoksundo Lake trek. Its people follow Bon and Buddhist traditions. There are a handful of simple lodges and homestays, which is why the Lower Dolpo routes can now be done partly teahouse-style. Rooms are basic, beds limited and food simple. Most itineraries spend two nights here to acclimatise and explore the lake shore, the Bon gompa and viewpoints above the village.
Do, or Dho Tarap, is the main village of the Tarap valley and a highlight of both the Lower Dolpo Circuit and many Upper Dolpo exits. Houses, fields and chortens spread across a high basin with Buddhist and Bon gompas nearby. Expect basic homestays or camping; a rest day here is common to explore and acclimatise. It is several days on foot from the nearest road at Dunai, so supplies are limited and expensive.
Shey is less a village than a monastery settlement at the foot of the Crystal Mountain, reached only after crossing the Kang La. A few families and monks live around the gompa. There is no lodge: everyone camps. Groups usually stay two nights to visit Shey Gompa, walk to Tsakhang hermitage and rest before the next pass. It is one of the most atmospheric campsites in Nepal, with prayer flags, a wooden bridge and views up the valley.
Namgung, sometimes written Namduna or Namdo, is a small village beyond Shey with its striking cliff-cave gompa. Upper Dolpo treks usually camp nearby after crossing the Saldang La (or Shey La) pass on the way to Saldang. It is very small, with no facilities beyond spring water and space to camp. Visit the gompa with your guide if the caretaker is present.
Saldang is the largest village in Upper Dolpo and the region’s informal hub, spread for a few kilometres along a terrace above the Nankhang river. It has gompas, a school, a health post and small shops where the stock depends on the last caravan or helicopter. Upper Dolpo itineraries spend one or two nights here; side trips to Yangze Gompa and the villages towards Tinje start from here. Expect camping, though a few homestays may be available.
Tinje is a village in the Panzang valley on the eastern side of Upper Dolpo, with gompas and summer grazing land. Chharka (Chharka Bhot), further east towards Mustang, is one of the highest permanent villages in Nepal, at around 4,300 m. Both lie on the long traverse from Upper Dolpo to Jomsom, and both are camping-only stops. They are reached by very few trekkers each year.
All Dolpo treks start from Juphal (or occasionally by road from Dunai), and all need a licensed guide arranged by a registered agency. Days below are walking days from Juphal; add three to five days for Kathmandu, Nepalgunj and weather buffers.
About 7 to 9 walking days; max around 3,640 m; moderate. The shortest and most popular Dolpo trek follows the Thuli Bheri to Dunai, then the Suli Gad valley via Chhepka to Ringmo and Phoksundo Lake, returning the same way. It stays below 4,000 m, uses basic lodges and homestays as well as camping, and needs only the Lower Dolpo permit and park fee. It suits fit trekkers who want Dolpo’s most famous sight without high passes. Allow two nights at the lake and a spare day for the Juphal flight. If this is your first trek in Nepal, consider building experience first on our Annapurna Base Camp trek.
About 12 to 15 walking days; max around 5,190 m (Numa La); strenuous. This loop links Phoksundo Lake with the Tarap valley over Baga La and Numa La, returning down the Tarap gorge via Do Tarap, Khanigaon and Tarakot to Dunai (it can be walked in either direction). Lodges and homestays exist in the lower villages, but the pass section has no settlements, so camping or very basic shelters are needed for two to four nights. It is the best Dolpo trek for most people with two and a half to three weeks: big scenery, culture and two high passes, with lower permit costs than Upper Dolpo.
About 18 to 24 walking days; max around 5,350 m (Kang La); strenuous to very strenuous. The classic expedition: Juphal to Phoksundo, along the lake’s western shore and over the Kang La to Shey Gompa, then over a second pass to Namgung and Saldang, on via Yangze or Sibu and the Jeng La to the Tarap valley, and out via Do Tarap and Tarakot to Dunai. It crosses several passes above 5,000 m and is fully supported camping, with a cook, kitchen crew, porters or mules. It suits experienced high-altitude trekkers with three to four weeks.
About 22 to 28 walking days; several passes above 5,000 m; very strenuous. Instead of returning to Juphal, this route continues east from Saldang via Tinje and Chharka, crossing remote passes into Mustang and finishing at Kagbeni or Jomsom. It is part of the Great Himalaya Trail and one of the wildest walks in Nepal, with many days between villages. Needs full camping support and both Dolpo and Mustang permits; it is usually done in late summer or early autumn when passes are clear.
About 9 to 12 walking days; max around 5,100 m; strenuous. A western exit from Lower Dolpo: from Ringmo the route climbs over the Kagmara La and continues through high pastures and forest to Jumla, which has its own airstrip and road. Some groups extend it to Rara Lake. It is a camping route, little trekked, and a good option for those who want Phoksundo plus a high pass without the Upper Dolpo fee.
| Trek | Walking days | Max altitude | Difficulty | Accommodation | Permit |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Phoksundo Lake | 7–9 | c. 3,640 m | Moderate | Lodges, homestays, some camping | Lower Dolpo + park |
| Lower Dolpo Circuit | 12–15 | c. 5,190 m | Strenuous | Mixed; camping on passes | Lower Dolpo + park |
| Upper Dolpo (Shey Gompa) | 18–24 | c. 5,350 m | Strenuous to very strenuous | Camping | Upper + Lower Dolpo + park |
| Upper Dolpo to Mustang | 22–28 | 5,000 m+ (several passes) | Very strenuous | Camping | Dolpo + Upper Mustang + ACAP + park |
| Phoksundo to Jumla | 9–12 | c. 5,100 m | Strenuous | Camping | Lower Dolpo + park |
For how Dolpo compares with treks elsewhere in the country, see our guide to trekking in Nepal. If you like the idea of a restricted-area circuit but want lodges throughout, the Manaslu Circuit is the nearest equivalent.
Agencies increasingly sell Lower Dolpo as a “teahouse trek”, and it is true that lodges and homestays now operate from Juphal to Ringmo and in villages such as Tarakot and Do Tarap. But they are few, very basic and can be full or closed. There are no lodges on the Numa La and Baga La section, so a Lower Dolpo Circuit still needs tents for a few nights.
Upper Dolpo is a camping region. Beyond Phoksundo there are almost no commercial lodges, food is scarce and villagers cannot supply groups. Your agency must fly or carry in food, fuel and tents, which is why the trip costs more and needs a bigger team. Treat any “Upper Dolpo teahouse trek” claim with caution and ask exactly where you will sleep each night.
Dolpo is a restricted area. You cannot trek it independently: a registered Nepali trekking agency applies for your permits at the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu, and a licensed guide must accompany you. The fees below are those published by agencies and the Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal (TAAN) at the time of writing; they are set in US dollars and can change, so confirm them with your agency.
| Permit | Where it applies | Fee (foreigner, approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Upper Dolpo restricted area permit | North of Phoksundo: Shey, Saldang, Tinje, Chharka and the upper valleys | US$500 (about £375) per person for the first 10 days, then US$50 (about £37) per day |
| Lower Dolpo restricted area permit | Dunai, Tarakot, the Tarap valley, the Phoksundo approach | US$20 (about £15) per person per week, plus a small fee for extra days (often quoted as US$5 per day) |
| Shey Phoksundo National Park entry | The whole park, including Phoksundo Lake and Shey | NPR 3,000 (about £17); lower for SAARC nationals |
| Upper Mustang permit and ACAP | Only if you exit east into Mustang | US$50 per day plus NPR 3,000 (see our Mustang guide) |
The Upper Dolpo fee is a fixed US$500 for a 10-day minimum, whether you spend six days in the restricted zone or ten. In November 2025 the government cut Upper Mustang to a simple US$50 per day; TAAN publicly asked for the same model in Upper Dolpo, but at the time of writing we have found no confirmed change. Most Upper Dolpo itineraries spend 10 to 12 days in the zone, so expect US$500 to US$600 per person, plus the Lower Dolpo permit for the approach and exit. Our Mustang guide covers the Upper Mustang rules.
Restricted areas have always required a licensed guide and a registered agency, and the Nepal Tourism Board extended the guide requirement to national parks and conservation areas from April 2023. There are no exceptions for Dolpo. Until 2026 restricted area permits were only issued to groups of at least two foreign trekkers. Agencies report that from 22 March 2026 the two-person minimum was dropped so solo trekkers can get permits (still with a guide), but the Department of Immigration’s own web page still describes the group rule, so check with your agency before booking alone.
Your agency needs your passport, a valid visa covering the whole trek (permits are not issued beyond your visa’s expiry), photos and your insurance details. Agencies differ on whether a TIMS card is also needed alongside the restricted area permit; it is handled by the agency either way. Carry the original permits and your passport: they are checked at Dunai, at the park office at Sulighat and at posts on the route. Stick to the route on your permit, which cannot be changed on the trail.
Your policy must cover trekking to at least the highest pass on your route (5,500 m to be safe for Upper Dolpo) and helicopter evacuation. Agencies and checkpoints may ask to see it. Read our guide on whether you need travel insurance for trekking.
Almost everyone reaches Dolpo by two flights: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj in the western Terai, then a small plane from Nepalgunj to the Juphal airstrip. On the way out you reverse the trip. Build in at least one, and ideally two, buffer days for weather.
| Leg | How | Time | Approx. cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kathmandu to Nepalgunj | Scheduled flight (Buddha Air and others) | About 1 hour | Nepali-national fare about NPR 11,600 plus taxes; foreigners pay a higher US-dollar fare |
| Kathmandu to Nepalgunj | Overnight tourist or night bus | About 12–15 hours | Inexpensive; tiring |
| Nepalgunj to Juphal | Small twin-engine plane (Twin Otter or Dornier; Tara Air, Sita Air and others) | About 35–45 minutes | Nepali-national fare about NPR 5,600 plus taxes; foreigners pay a higher US-dollar fare, usually included in packages |
| Juphal to Dunai | On foot | About 3 hours | — |
| Nepalgunj to Dunai | Jeep or bus via Surkhet, Jajarkot and the Bheri Corridor | Usually 1–2 long days | Varies; private jeep hire is expensive |
Juphal flights leave Nepalgunj early in the morning, when winds are calmest. Scheduled services are infrequent (published schedules show only one or two a week for some airlines), so agencies often book extra or charter flights for groups. Weight limits are strict, usually around 10 to 15 kg of checked baggage plus a small carry-on; excess is charged per kilo. Sit on the right side going in for mountain views. The airstrip at around 2,500 m is short, and the approach is through a valley, so flights are delayed or cancelled by cloud or wind. In September 2026 a Sita Air plane lost a wheel on landing (all 13 people on board were unhurt), which closed the runway until the aircraft could be moved. Delays like this are part of Dolpo travel.
Nepalgunj is a hot, busy Terai border town near India, at around 150 m. Groups typically overnight here before the Juphal flight and sometimes on the way back. There are mid-range hotels with air-conditioning near the airport. Expect temperatures well above 35°C before the monsoon. If you have time, Bardiya National Park is a few hours away by road, and Lumbini can be reached by road towards the east.
Dolpo has been linked to the national road network since about 2018 via the Bheri Corridor highway from Surkhet through Jajarkot to Dunai. The road is rough, partly unpaved and has had missing bridges and makeshift crossings. In past years it was usable only in the dry season; in 2025 a direct Nepalgunj to Dolpa bus resumed after a six-month break, and in July 2026 culverts were installed to keep traffic moving in the monsoon. Some expedition groups use it when flights are cancelled, but for most visitors it is a backup, not a plan.
Helicopters are used for rescue and, on some luxury or time-short trips, to fly in from Nepalgunj or out of Upper Dolpo. Charters cost thousands of US dollars and are weather-dependent too. Your agency should have a clear plan for evacuation, and your insurance must cover it.
Dolpo has two different climates. Lower Dolpo behaves like the rest of the Nepal Himalaya, with a wet monsoon from June to September. Upper Dolpo lies in the rain shadow and gets little rain, so its trekking season runs through the summer, when Nepal’s other regions are wet. The catch is that you still have to fly into Juphal and walk through Lower Dolpo, where monsoon cloud and landslides cause problems. See our guide to the best season to travel in Nepal for the bigger picture.
| Months | Lower Dolpo (Phoksundo, Tarap) | Upper Dolpo (Shey, Saldang) |
|---|---|---|
| Dec–Feb | Cold; snow on high trails; Ringmo quiet, many locals move lower | Very cold, passes snowbound; not recommended |
| Mar–Apr | Warming; snow possible on Numa La and Baga La until April | Passes often still snowy; few groups |
| May–early Jun | Good: warm, clear mornings; yarsagumba harvest season fills upper pastures | Season starts; Kang La usually passable |
| Jul–Aug | Monsoon: rain, leeches lower down, landslides and flight cancellations | Good in the rain shadow; green fields, caravans and festivals, but access is the problem |
| Sep–Oct | Best overall: clear skies, harvest, steadier flights from late September | Excellent until mid-October, then increasingly cold |
| Nov | Crisp and clear but cold above 4,000 m; Numa La and Baga La possible early in the month | Passes risky; most groups finish by early November |
The great Shey festival at the Crystal Mountain is held once every 12 years in the dragon year of the Tibetan calendar; the 2024 festival was held in late August and early September, so the next is expected in 2036. Every year, village gompas hold their own masked dance and prayer festivals, often in summer and around the Tibetan New Year (Losar, February or March). Saga Dawa (around May or June) is an auspicious month for koras. Dates follow the lunar calendar and vary by village, so ask your agency.
From around May to June, many Dolpo families head to high pastures to collect yarsagumba, a valuable caterpillar fungus. Villages can be half empty, lodges and homestays may close, and some camps become crowded with harvesters. It is a fascinating part of the local economy, but check with your agency how it affects your route.
Dolpo is two cultures. In Lower Dolpo, around Dunai and Tarakot, most people are Khas (including Thakuri and Chhetri), Magar and Gurung, mostly Hindu, with temples, terraced fields and a Nepali way of life. Further up, the Dolpo-pa, a people of Tibetan origin, live in Ringmo, the Tarap valley and all of Upper Dolpo. They speak a Tibetan dialect, farm barley and buckwheat, keep yaks, goats and sheep, and for centuries traded salt from Tibet for grain from the lower hills.
Dolpo is one of the last strongholds of Bon, the pre-Buddhist religion of Tibet, which survives alongside Tibetan Buddhism (Nyingma, Kagyu and Sakya schools). Ringmo, parts of the Tarap valley and some villages near Saldang are Bon. To the visitor, Bon gompas look similar to Buddhist ones, but the swastika turns the other way and kora, the circling of sacred sites, is done anticlockwise. Our guide to culture in Nepal covers the wider background.
Dolpo is known for its amchi, practitioners of traditional Tibetan medicine who use local plants and minerals. You may pass a small amchi clinic or school on the trail to Phoksundo, near Rechi. Ask your guide whether a visit is possible; do not expect a tourist attraction, and never buy medicinal plants from the park.
The Himalaya film tells the story of yak salt caravans to Tibet. Trade across the border has declined and changed, but you may still meet yak or mule caravans between Saldang, Tinje and the border, and horse trains on the lower trails. Step to the uphill side of the trail and wait for animals to pass.
Expect dal bhat (rice, lentils and vegetables) in Lower Dolpo, and tsampa (roasted barley flour), buckwheat bread, potatoes, butter tea and noodles higher up. On camping treks your cook prepares three meals a day from food carried in. Fresh vegetables are scarce in Upper Dolpo, so bring snacks you like from Kathmandu.
Dolpo needs more preparation than any mainstream Nepal trek. For general preparation, read our safety tips for trekking in Nepal; these are the points specific to Dolpo.
Lodges and homestays in Juphal, Dunai, Chhepka, Ringmo, Tarakot and Do Tarap are basic: twin rooms or dorms with thin mattresses, shared squat toilets and cold or bucket showers. Rooms usually cost a few hundred to around NPR 1,500 (about £3 to £9), with meals charged on top; a plate of dal bhat costs more than in the Annapurna region as food is flown or carried in. In Upper Dolpo you sleep in tents: two-person sleeping tents, a dining tent, a toilet tent and a kitchen crew. Prices here are estimates; rates change by season.
Dolpo is expensive because of permits, flights, crew and supplies. As a rough guide at the time of writing, Phoksundo Lake and Lower Dolpo packages from Kathmandu are often advertised from around US$1,800 to US$3,000 per person, and full Upper Dolpo camping treks from around US$3,500 to over US$6,000, depending on group size, length and inclusions. Check what is included: flights, permits, camping gear, all meals and crew insurance. Very cheap Upper Dolpo quotes usually cut corners.
Do not rely on ATMs in Dolpo. Dunai has banks, but cards may not work and machines go offline. There is nothing beyond. Bring enough Nepali rupees for tips, drinks, snacks, charging, donations and souvenirs, in small notes, from Kathmandu or Nepalgunj. On a fully supported trek you will mainly need cash for tips: budget for this at the end of the trip, as crews are large.
Mobile coverage (Nepal Telecom and Ncell) works around Juphal and Dunai and patchily in some villages, but expect long stretches with no signal, especially in Upper Dolpo. Some lodges have satellite wi-fi at a cost. Electricity is mostly solar: bring a large power bank and a solar panel for long treks. Your guide should carry a satellite phone; ask your agency to confirm. Download offline maps before you leave Kathmandu.
Juphal is at about 2,500 m, so the first days are gentle, but Upper Dolpo spends many nights above 4,000 m and crosses passes above 5,000 m. Choose an itinerary with rest days at Phoksundo and Shey, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol and descend if symptoms of altitude sickness worsen. The nearest proper hospital is in Nepalgunj; Dunai has a district hospital and villages have health posts at best. Learn the warning signs of altitude sickness before you go. Bring a full first-aid kit and personal medicines.
Nepal saw deadly anti-government protests in Kathmandu in September 2025, followed by an interim government and elections in March 2026. The FCDO notes that protests and strikes can still flare up at short notice and disrupt transport. Dolpo itself has been calm. The FCDO also notes that no Nepali airline meets international safety standards for the UK Air Safety List and that trekkers must use a guide or porter in protected areas.
The bigger practical risks are weather, flights, landslides and remoteness. A flash flood in Dolpa in July 2026 injured several villagers, and major floods in August and October 2026 damaged trails and roads in central Nepal. Always check the latest FCDO travel advice for Nepal before travelling.
Bring a four-season sleeping bag (rated to around minus 15°C for Upper Dolpo), down jacket, waterproofs, warm layers, sun hat and high-factor sunscreen for the intense UV, and sturdy boots. Gaiters and microspikes help on snowy passes in spring and late autumn. Check your agency’s kit list; it should supply tents, mattresses and dining gear on camping treks.
Dolpo’s environment and culture are fragile. Use a water filter or purification tablets instead of buying plastic bottles, carry your rubbish out, use toilet tents or lodge toilets, and avoid open fires where wood is scarce. Make sure your agency pays fair wages and insures guides, porters and muleteers, as required by the restricted area rules. Do not buy antiques, religious items or wildlife products, and do not collect plants in the national park.
Dolpo is one of the hardest places in Nepal to organise well, and the details matter: flight buffers, the right permit days, a reliable camping crew and a sensible acclimatisation plan. Tell us your dates and experience and we will help you choose between Phoksundo, the Lower Dolpo Circuit and Upper Dolpo. Plan your trip with Get Lost Forever, or explore the rest of Nepal.
Dolpo (Dolpa district) is in Karnali Province in mid-western Nepal, west of Mustang and north of Rukum and Jajarkot, bordering Tibet to the north. Most of it lies in Shey Phoksundo National Park.
At the time of writing, US$500 per person for the first 10 days and US$50 per day after that, plus the Lower Dolpo permit (around US$20 per week) and the Shey Phoksundo National Park fee (NPR 3,000). A change to a per-day system has been requested by the trekking industry but not confirmed, so check with your agency.
No. Dolpo is a restricted area: permits are only issued through a registered agency, and a licensed guide must accompany you. Independent trekking is not allowed.
Agencies report that from March 2026 restricted area permits can be issued to a single trekker with a guide, ending the two-person minimum. Official pages have not all been updated, so confirm with your agency before you book.
Partly. Basic lodges and homestays now exist from Juphal to Ringmo and in some Lower Dolpo villages, so the Phoksundo Lake trek can be done teahouse-style. The passes of the Lower Dolpo Circuit and almost all of Upper Dolpo require camping.
Fly from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, then on to Juphal, and walk via Dunai and Chhepka to Ringmo at the lake, usually in three to four days. The return takes a similar time, so allow around 10 to 14 days from Kathmandu.
Surveys by Nepal’s Department of Hydrology and Meteorology measured about 145 m in 2004 and about 136 m in 2019, making it Nepal’s deepest lake. It sits at roughly 3,600 m.
For Lower Dolpo and Phoksundo, late September to early November and May to early June. Upper Dolpo, in the rain shadow, is best from late May to mid-October, although flights into Juphal are less reliable during the monsoon.
Typically 18 to 24 walking days, or around 24 to 30 days including Kathmandu, Nepalgunj and buffer days. Traverses to Mustang take longer.
Dolpo is calm, but it is remote: flights are weather-dependent, landslides close trails, and rescue relies on helicopters. Trek with a reputable agency, buy insurance that covers evacuation and check the latest FCDO travel advice for Nepal before you go.
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