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Annapurna Region Travel Guide

Nepal's most varied trekking region, from Gurung hill villages and Poon Hill sunrises to the Annapurna Sanctuary and the Thorong La, with Pokhara as your base.

Location

North of Pokhara

Highest point

Thorong La 5,416 m

Main treks

Circuit, ABC, Mardi

Permits

ACAP ~NPR 3,000

Best season

Oct–Nov, Mar–Apr

Gateway

Pokhara

The Annapurna Region at a glance

The Annapurna Region is the arc of mountains, valleys and hill villages north of Pokhara in central Nepal, and it is the country’s most popular trekking area. Almost all of it sits inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal’s largest protected area at about 7,600 sq km, run by the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) since 1986. It spreads across five districts: Kaski, Lamjung, Manang, Myagdi and Mustang. ACAP reports that the region receives about 40 per cent of the tourists who come to Nepal.

The region in words

Picture the Annapurna massif as a wall running east to west, with two great rivers wrapping around it. To the east, the Marsyangdi flows south from Manang past Chame and Besisahar. To the west, the Kali Gandaki cuts through the range between Annapurna I (8,091 m) and Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), forming one of the deepest gorges on earth. The Thorong La pass (5,416 m) links the head of these two valleys, and that loop is the Annapurna Circuit.

South of the wall lie the green foothills of Kaski and Myagdi. This is Gurung and Magar country, with terraced hillsides, stone villages such as Ghandruk and Ghorepani, and forests of rhododendron. In the middle, the Modi Khola gorge leads up into the Annapurna Sanctuary, a glacial bowl ringed by Annapurna I, Hiunchuli, Annapurna South and the fishtail summit of Machhapuchhre (6,993 m). That is where Annapurna Base Camp sits, at about 4,130 m. North of the wall, Manang and Mustang lie in the rain shadow: dry, high, Tibetan-Buddhist and quite unlike the foothills.

Pokhara is the gateway. It is Nepal’s second tourist town, about 200 km west of Kathmandu, and most treks here start and finish within a few hours’ drive of its lake.

Why go

  • Range in a small area: you can walk from rice terraces at under 1,000 m to an 8,000 m peak’s base camp in five or six days.
  • Choice of length: treks run from three days (Poon Hill) to three weeks (the full Circuit with Tilicho and Nar Phu).
  • Easy logistics: no mountain flight is needed to start. Roads reach many trailheads, so itineraries are flexible and bad-weather delays are fewer than in the Everest region.
  • Good lodges: teahouses are plentiful, cheap and often family-run, with hot showers and bakeries on the main routes.
  • Culture: Gurung and Magar hill villages, Thakali trading towns and Tibetan-style Buddhist settlements, all on one network of trails.

Who it suits

First-time trekkers do well here, because the lower treks stay below 3,300 m and can be shortened or extended easily. Fit walkers wanting a big objective have the Thorong La and the Sanctuary. Families, older walkers and anyone short on time can choose Poon Hill, Ghandruk or the lower Mardi Himal ridge. The region also suits people who want to combine a trek with a few relaxed days by the lake in Pokhara.

How it compares

Compared with the Everest region, Annapurna is lower on most routes, cheaper to reach and greener, with more cultural variety. It lacks Everest’s sense of being among the very highest peaks, but the Sanctuary comes close. Langtang is closer to Kathmandu and quieter, though shorter on choice. Manaslu and Nar Phu are wilder and need restricted-area permits. The trade-off for Annapurna’s accessibility is roads: jeep tracks now reach Manang, Muktinath and many foothill villages, and some sections of the classic routes share a valley with traffic. Good itineraries use alternative footpaths and step off the road where they can.

Highlights of the Annapurna Region

These are the sights most visitors come for, with the practical detail you need to fit them into a trek.

Annapurna Sanctuary and Base Camp (4,130 m)

The amphitheatre at the head of the Modi Khola is the region’s signature sight. From Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) you look up at the south face of Annapurna I, with Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhre around you. Most people overnight at Machhapuchhre Base Camp (about 3,700 m) and walk the last 1.5–2 hours to ABC, or sleep at ABC for sunrise. Six or so lodges at ABC hold around 350 people, so book through your agency in October. Sunrise on the south face is the moment to be there; cloud often builds by late morning.

Poon Hill sunrise (3,210 m)

A 45–60 minute pre-dawn climb from Ghorepani brings you to a viewing tower with Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre and a long chain of peaks in front of you. It is the most famous viewpoint in Nepal for good reason, and also the busiest: in October a few hundred people may be on the hill at dawn. A small local ticket is collected on the way up. Nearby Mohare Danda and Khopra Danda offer similar views with far fewer people. See our Poon Hill trek guide.

Thorong La pass (5,416 m)

The high point of the Annapurna Circuit is one of the world’s most-crossed high passes. Most trekkers start from Thorong Phedi or High Camp at 4 to 5 am and reach the top in 3–5 hours, then descend about 1,600 m to Muktinath. The pass is not technical, but it is very cold at dawn and the altitude is serious. It can close for days after snow; in October 2014 a sudden blizzard killed more than 40 people in the area. Never cross in a storm.

Tilicho Lake (about 4,919 m)

One of the highest large lakes in the world, a turquoise sheet under the ice walls of Tilicho Peak. It is a two-to-three day side trip from Manang via Khangsar and Shree Kharka (about 4,060 m) to Tilicho Base Camp (about 4,140 m), then a steep early climb of roughly 800 m. The trail between Shree Kharka and base camp crosses an unstable landslide slope; walk it early, quickly and without stopping. Ice can linger near the lake in spring and late autumn, so microspikes help.

Muktinath temple complex (about 3,710–3,800 m)

Muktinath is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Inside the walled complex, 108 water spouts feed a shrine to Vishnu, and a small Buddhist gompa shelters a natural gas flame that burns beside spring water. Indian pilgrims arrive by jeep from Jomsom, so the site is busy in spring and autumn. Allow an hour or two; take shoes off where asked and walk clockwise. It is the first stop after the Thorong La.

Kali Gandaki gorge and Lower Mustang

The road and trails down the Kali Gandaki pass between two 8,000 m peaks. The upper part, from Muktinath to Jomsom and Marpha, is dry, windswept and dotted with whitewashed Thakali villages and apple orchards. Afternoon wind is fierce, so walk in the morning. Kagbeni, at the gateway to Upper Mustang, has a red-walled medieval core and a large monastery. Lower in the gorge you reach the hot springs at Tatopani.

Ghandruk Gurung village

Ghandruk is the best-known Gurung village in Nepal: slate-roofed stone houses, flagstone lanes and a close-up view of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre. Visit the small Gurung museum, eat in a family lodge and walk the upper village at sunset. It is reachable by jeep from Pokhara in about 3 hours, so it also works as an overnight trip. It was one of the first villages where ACAP piloted community conservation and lodge management.

Mardi Himal ridge

A ridge walk east of the Sanctuary that climbs from rhododendron forest to open grassland facing the fishtail of Machhapuchhre at very close range. The Upper Viewpoint (about 4,200 m) is the usual high point, with Mardi Himal Base Camp at about 4,500 m a longer push if weather allows. It is only about an hour’s drive from Pokhara to the trailhead, which makes it a strong 4–6 day option. Lodges higher up are simple and very cold at night.

Braga, Manang and the Ice Lake

The upper Marsyangdi valley around Manang (about 3,540 m) is the Circuit’s acclimatisation centre. Braga’s old gompa sits on a cliff above stacked stone houses. On rest days, walk to the Ice Lake (Kicho Tal, roughly 4,600 m), the Milarepa cave or the Gangapurna glacier viewpoint. The Himalayan Rescue Association has long run a seasonal aid post in Manang with afternoon altitude talks, though its dates vary each year.

Jhinu Danda and Tatopani hot springs

Two places to soak tired legs. Jhinu Danda’s riverside pools lie about 20 minutes below the village on the ABC route, usually for a small fee. Tatopani (‘hot water’) in the lower Kali Gandaki has larger pools near the road. Both get busy in season. Bring a swimsuit, as bathing naked is not acceptable.

Nar and Phu villages

Two stone villages in a restricted valley north of the Circuit, linked to Tibet by trade and culture. Phu (about 4,080 m) is reached through a narrow gorge and a gateway of chortens; Nar (about 4,110 m) sits among barley fields under the Kang La pass. Tashi Lhakhang gompa near Phu and the painted chortens of Nar are the highlights. Visitor numbers are small, and the permit system keeps it that way.

Rhododendron forests in spring

From mid-March to mid-April, the forests between Ulleri, Ghorepani, Tadapani and the lower Mardi Himal ridge turn red, pink and white with blooming rhododendron, Nepal’s national flower. Timing shifts with altitude and the year. The trade-off is haze, which softens mountain views compared with autumn.

Key villages and towns

Altitudes are approximate; sources vary by 20–100 m. Villages with their own guide are linked.

Pokhara (about 800 m)

Nepal’s lakeside base for the region and the end point of most treks. Pokhara has every level of hotel, ATMs, gear shops and the Nepal Tourism Board permit counter in Damside. Lakeside is for cafés and rest days; Sarangkot and the World Peace Pagoda give the first view of the Annapurnas. Plan at least one night before and one after your trek. Treks: every route in this guide starts or ends here.

Ghandruk (about 1,940–2,010 m)

A large Gurung village on a hillside facing Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre. Ghandruk has dozens of lodges, a small museum and a strong community feel. A rough road connects it with Pokhara via Nayapul, so it is busy with domestic visitors at weekends. In July 2026 a flood damaged the road and a key bridge nearby; the road reopened in September. Treks: ABC (often day one or two), Poon Hill loop, Khopra Ridge.

Ghorepani (about 2,860 m)

A ridge-top village of lodges in rhododendron forest, set up for trekkers heading to Poon Hill before dawn. Ghorepani is cold at night from November to March, but lodges have dining-room stoves. It is the busiest overnight on the Poon Hill loop, so in October and April book ahead. Treks: Poon Hill, ABC via Poon Hill, Khopra Ridge, Mohare Danda link.

Chhomrong (about 2,170 m)

The last big village before the Annapurna Sanctuary, set on a steep hillside facing Annapurna South and Hiunchuli. Chhomrong has an ACAP checkpoint, good lodges and a well-known bakery culture. You descend a long staircase to the Chhomrong Khola and climb back up on the return. This is also the place to stock up on snacks before prices rise. Treks: ABC (typically day two or three each way).

Deurali and Machhapuchhre Base Camp (about 3,200 m / 3,700 m)

The final lodge clusters inside the Modi Khola gorge. Deurali sits below avalanche-prone slopes; in January 2020 an avalanche between Deurali and Himalaya killed several trekkers and staff. Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) is a meadow at the gate of the Sanctuary, with direct views of the fishtail peak. Rooms are simple and often shared. Treks: ABC.

Manang (about 3,540 m)

The main town of the upper Marsyangdi, with stone houses, prayer wheels, bakeries, small shops and the Himalayan Rescue Association post. Manang is where Circuit trekkers spend one or two acclimatisation nights before heading to the pass or to Tilicho Lake. Jeeps now reach it, though the road was cut for about three weeks after floods in late September 2026. Treks: Annapurna Circuit, Tilicho Lake, Nar Phu exit.

Chame (about 2,670 m)

The district headquarters of Manang, with government offices, an ACAP checkpoint and hot springs nearby. It marks the start of the Circuit’s drier upper section and the first view of Annapurna II. Public buses have reached Chame since April 2025. In September 2026 floodwater submerged the bridge here, and light vehicles used a temporary timber crossing from 13 October. Treks: Annapurna Circuit, Nar Phu (via Koto just below).

Muktinath / Ranipauwa (about 3,710–3,800 m)

The pilgrimage settlement below the temple complex, with large lodges, shops and jeeps to Jomsom. It is where Thorong La trekkers arrive tired and happy. Ranipauwa village is livelier than it once was, with paved lanes and many Indian pilgrim groups. Treks: Annapurna Circuit (the night after the pass), Lower Mustang.

Jomsom (about 2,720 m)

The administrative centre of Mustang district and the end point of many Circuit treks. Jomsom has an airstrip with morning flights to Pokhara when they operate (regular flights were suspended in mid-October 2026), plus buses down the Kali Gandaki road. Nearby Marpha, about an hour south, is the prettier overnight. Treks: Annapurna Circuit, Lower Mustang, Upper Mustang start.

Kagbeni (about 2,810 m)

A fortress-like village of mud-walled houses and narrow alleys where the Jhong Khola meets the Kali Gandaki. Kagbeni is the checkpoint for Upper Mustang; beyond it, a restricted-area permit is required. It makes a good overnight between Muktinath and Jomsom. Treks: Annapurna Circuit, Upper Mustang.

Landruk and Dhampus (about 1,565 m / 1,650 m)

Two foothill villages on the eastern side of the Modi Khola. Dhampus, close to the Australian Camp viewpoint, is an easy first night out of Pokhara with a broad Annapurna panorama. Landruk faces Ghandruk across the gorge and links to the ABC trail via Jhinu Danda. Both are Gurung villages with homestays and lodges. Treks: Mardi Himal, ABC (eastern approach), Australian Camp short walk.

Nar and Phu (about 4,110 m / 4,080 m)

Remote Tibetan-Buddhist villages in the restricted Nar Phu valley. Lodges are basic, often a family’s spare rooms, with simple meals and very cold nights. Facilities are limited; carry cash and a warm sleeping bag. From Nar, the Kang La pass (about 5,240–5,320 m) crosses to Ngawal on the Circuit. Treks: Nar Phu Valley, usually combined with the Annapurna Circuit.

Annapurna treks: which one is right for you?

The region has a trek for almost every length of holiday. Here are the main options, from shortest to most demanding in practice.

Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)

7–12 days from Pokhara | Max 4,130 m | Moderate

Up through Gurung villages to Chhomrong, then through bamboo and rhododendron forest into the Sanctuary. Long stone staircases are the main challenge rather than altitude. It suits fit first-timers who want a big-mountain finish without going above 4,200 m. Starts from Nayapul, Ghandruk or Jhinu by jeep. Our Annapurna Base Camp Trek runs this route with a licensed guide.

Annapurna Circuit

12–18 days | Max 5,416 m (Thorong La) | Moderate to strenuous

The classic loop from Besisahar up the Marsyangdi to Manang, over the Thorong La to Muktinath, then down to Jomsom or beyond. Roads now cover most of it, so many groups jeep to Chame or Pisang and walk the high section. It suits fit walkers who want variety and are ready for real altitude. Full details in our Annapurna Circuit guide.

Ghorepani Poon Hill

3–5 days | Max 3,210 m | Easy to moderate

A short loop from Nayapul or Ulleri to Ghorepani, sunrise at Poon Hill, then through Tadapani to Ghandruk. Expect more than 3,000 stone steps on the climb to Ulleri. It suits families, beginners and anyone with only a week in Nepal. See the Poon Hill trek guide.

Mardi Himal

4–6 days | Max about 4,200–4,500 m | Moderate

A quieter ridge trek from Kande or Dhampus through Forest Camp (about 2,550 m), Low Camp (about 3,000 m) and High Camp (about 3,550 m) to the viewpoints below Mardi Himal. It returns via Siding. Lodges are simple and the top section is steep and exposed in fog or snow. It suits walkers wanting a short trek with real high-mountain scenery and fewer people.

Khopra Ridge (Khopra Danda)

6–9 days | Max about 3,660 m (Khayer Lake higher) | Moderate

An off-the-main-trail route linking Ghorepani or Ghandruk with community-run lodges at Dobato and Khopra Danda, facing Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South. A hard optional day climbs to the sacred Khayer Lake. Some lodges here are run by a community scheme, with profits going to local schools and health posts. It suits people who like Poon Hill’s scenery but not its crowds.

Tilicho Lake

Adds 2–3 days to the Circuit | Max about 4,919 m | Strenuous

A side trip from Manang to the lake via Khangsar and Shree Kharka, then back to rejoin the Circuit at Yak Kharka. A route over the Mesokanto La to Jomsom exists but is serious and needs local advice and specific permits. It suits strong walkers already acclimatised in Manang.

Nar Phu Valley

10–14 days (usually with the Circuit) | Max about 5,320 m (Kang La) | Strenuous

Turns north at Koto, below Chame, through a gorge to Meta, Phu and Nar, then crosses the Kang La to Ngawal and rejoins the Circuit. Restricted-area permit, licensed guide and registered agency required. It suits experienced trekkers who want remoteness and Tibetan culture.

Mohare Danda and short foothill walks

1–5 days | Max about 3,300 m | Easy to moderate

Mohare Danda is a community-lodge ridge east of Poon Hill with similar views. Australian Camp and Dhampus make a 1–2 day walk from Pokhara, and Ghandruk can be done as a jeep-and-walk overnight. These suit families and anyone needing a gentle introduction.

Annapurna treks compared

TrekDaysMax altitudeDifficultyBest for
Ghorepani Poon Hill3–53,210 mEasy–moderateShort trips, families, beginners
Mardi Himal4–6About 4,200–4,500 mModerateQuieter short trek, big views
Khopra Ridge6–9About 3,660 mModeratePoon Hill views without crowds
Annapurna Base Camp7–124,130 mModerateFirst big trek, mountain amphitheatre
Annapurna Circuit12–185,416 mModerate–strenuousVariety, high pass, culture
Tilicho Lake (side trip)+2–3About 4,919 mStrenuousAdding a high lake to the Circuit
Nar Phu Valley10–14About 5,320 mStrenuousRemote valleys, Tibetan culture

How to choose

  • One week in Nepal: Poon Hill or Mardi Himal from Pokhara.
  • Two weeks: ABC, or a shortened Circuit with jeep transfers.
  • Three weeks: the Circuit with Tilicho Lake, or Nar Phu plus the Thorong La.
  • First time above 3,000 m: ABC or Mardi Himal, which climb gradually and stay below about 4,500 m.

Days above are walking days from the trailhead. Add a day each side for Kathmandu–Pokhara travel and at least one buffer day for weather or road problems.

Permits, fees and guide rules

Every trek in this guide needs an ACAP entry permit. Some areas need extra restricted-area permits. On top of that, Nepal’s rule since 1 April 2023 is that foreign trekkers in national parks and conservation areas must trek with a licensed guide booked through a registered agency. Fees below were checked against 2026 sources and change from time to time, so confirm them when you book.

PermitNeeded forFee (approx.)Where to get it
ACAP entry permitAll treks in this guideNPR 3,000 (about £17) for foreigners; NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals; under-10s freeNepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu (Bhrikutimandap) or Pokhara (Damside), or through your agency. Usually double if bought at a checkpoint.
TIMS cardOfficially listed for main trekking regionsAround NPR 2,000 (about £11), issued through agenciesYour agency. Enforcement on Annapurna trails is inconsistent.
Nar Phu restricted area permitNar Phu valley (from Koto)US$100 per person for the first 7 days (Sep–Nov); US$75 (Dec–Aug); about US$15 per extra dayOnly through a registered agency, with a licensed guide
Upper Mustang restricted area permitNorth of KagbeniReported at US$50 per person per day since late 2025Only through a registered agency, with a licensed guide
Manaslu permits (MCAP and RAP)Manaslu Circuit, which ends in AnnapurnaSeparate fees; ACAP also needed for the exit via DharapaniRegistered agency; see our Manaslu guide

The licensed-guide rule

Since 1 April 2023, the Nepal Tourism Board has required foreign trekkers in national parks and conservation areas to use a government-licensed guide arranged through a registered agency. The UK FCDO’s current advice (updated October 2026) says foreign independent trekkers must use a local guide or porter in national parks and protected areas. In practice, enforcement on the Annapurna trails has been patchy, and some walkers still report trekking alone. Plan on a guide: it is the rule, your insurance may depend on it, and it makes a real difference to safety on the high routes.

ACAP's September 2026 notice

On 27 September 2026, after floods and landslides, ACAP asked all trekkers to travel with licensed guides, except on short-distance routes. It named Jomsom, Muktinath and Ghandruk as places where a guide is not mandatory. It also said permits for the Annapurna, Manaslu and Gaurishankar conservation areas would be issued only after road and weather conditions in each area had been assessed. Treat the high routes, including the Circuit, ABC, Mardi Himal, Tilicho and Nar Phu, as guide-required.

Restricted areas: what changed in 2026

For Nar Phu and Upper Mustang, a licensed guide and a registered agency have always been compulsory. In March 2026 the Department of Immigration reportedly dropped the old minimum of two trekkers per restricted-area permit, so solo travellers can now apply, still with a guide. Agency reports say one guide can lead up to seven trekkers. Check the current rule with your agency, as this change has been reported by trekking companies rather than in an official notice we could read.

Checkpoints and paperwork

Your ACAP permit is checked at points such as Birethanti, Ghorepani and Chhomrong (ABC and Poon Hill), Pothana (Mardi Himal), and Besisahar or Bhulbhule, Chame, Manang and the Jomsom area (Circuit). Carry the printed permit and your passport, as digital copies are not always accepted. You need a passport copy and passport photos to apply. Keep the permit until you leave the area.

Getting to the Annapurna Region

Almost every Annapurna trip runs through Pokhara. You fly or drive there from Kathmandu, then take a jeep or bus to your trailhead. The eastern side of the Circuit starts from Besisahar, which is reachable directly from Kathmandu. Prices below are approximate, change with fuel costs, and rise in peak season.

RouteOptionTimeApprox. cost
Kathmandu to PokharaDomestic flight25–30 minRoughly US$100–150 one way for foreigners
Kathmandu to PokharaTourist bus7–9 h, sometimes moreRoughly NPR 1,000–2,800 (£6–16)
Kathmandu to PokharaPrivate car or jeep6–8 hRoughly US$150–250 per vehicle
Pokhara to Nayapul (ABC, Poon Hill)Bus, shared or private jeep1.5–2 hNPR 200–400 by bus; about NPR 2,000–3,000 by private taxi
Pokhara to GhandrukJeepAbout 3 hShared or private; ask your agency
Pokhara to Kande or Dhampus (Mardi Himal)Taxi or jeepAbout 1 hRoughly NPR 2,000–3,000 per vehicle
Kathmandu to Besisahar (Circuit)Bus or private jeep6–8 hBus roughly NPR 1,000–2,000; jeep roughly US$150–200
Besisahar to ChameShared jeep or bus5–7 hRoughly NPR 3,000–5,000 per seat
Jomsom to PokharaBus or jeep via Beni7–10 hRoughly NPR 1,500–3,000
Jomsom to PokharaFlight (when running)About 20 minRoughly US$120–180 one way

Roads and disruption in 2026

The 2026 monsoon hit the region’s roads hard. Plan with these in mind and check the latest before you travel:

  • Prithvi Highway (Kathmandu–Pokhara): floods at Krishnabhir in late August 2026 closed the road for around 18 days. It reopened on a temporary track from 18 September, with further landslides reported later that month. Allow extra time, or fly.
  • ABC approach: a flash flood on 13 July 2026 swept away the Kimrung Khola bridge above Ghandruk and cut the road at Syauli Bazaar. The road through Birethanti and Syauli reopened in September, and a temporary crossing restored the trail. By early October about 300 trekkers a day were reaching ABC, with starts possible from Nayapul, Ghandruk or Chhomrong.
  • Manang road: floods and landslides in late September 2026 blocked the Besisahar–Chame–Manang road and submerged the bridge at Chame. Light vehicles were allowed through on a temporary timber crossing from 13 October after about three weeks.
  • Jomsom flights: Tara Air and Summit Air announced a suspension of regular Pokhara–Jomsom flights in mid-October 2026, with no restart date given. Even in normal times these flights only run in the morning and are often cancelled for wind.

Practical tips

  • Leave Pokhara early (by 7–8 am) for any trailhead drive. Roads above Nayapul and up the Marsyangdi are rough and slow after rain.
  • The FCDO advises against night travel and overcrowded buses. A private jeep is worth it for a group.
  • Build in one buffer day before your international flight home, especially if finishing at Jomsom.
  • Do not fly into Jomsom to cross the Thorong La east-bound; the climb from Muktinath gains about 1,600 m in a day and is far riskier for acclimatisation.

Best time to visit the Annapurna Region

October and November are the best months for clear views and stable weather across the region. Late March to April is the second season, with warmer days and rhododendrons but more haze. Winter is excellent for the lower treks. The monsoon is wet and disruptive in the foothills, though Manang and Mustang sit partly in the rain shadow.

MonthsFoothills (Poon Hill, Ghandruk)High routes (ABC, Mardi, Thorong La)Crowds
October–NovemberDry, clear, mild daysBest conditions; cold nights, sub-zero at 4,000 m+Busiest; book lodges early
December–FebruaryCold mornings, very clear, frost at GhorepaniSnow likely; Thorong La often closed, many high lodges shut; avalanche risk near DeuraliQuiet
March–AprilWarming, rhododendrons in bloom, haze buildsGood; snow on passes early in MarchBusy, especially April
MayHot low down, hazy, pre-monsoon stormsUsable; afternoon cloud and stormsModerate
June–SeptemberHeavy rain, leeches, landslides on roadsCloudy, wet on the south side; Manang and Mustang drierVery quiet

Festivals worth timing a trip around

  • Dashain and Tihar (October–November): Nepal’s biggest festivals. Villages put up bamboo swings and oil lamps. Transport is busy and some staff go home, so book early.
  • Tamu Lhosar (around late December): the Gurung new year, celebrated in Ghandruk and other Gurung villages with dances and gatherings.
  • Losar (usually January–March): Tibetan new year in Manang, Nar Phu and Mustang.
  • Yartung (around the August full moon): horse racing and celebrations around Muktinath.
  • Tiji (usually May): a three-day masked dance festival in Lo Manthang, Upper Mustang; see our Mustang guide.

Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change each year. Monsoon weather has been unusually destructive in 2026; if you travel between June and early October, carry spare days and ask your agency about each road before you leave.

People, religion and etiquette

The Annapurna Region is a cultural transect. As you climb, Hindu caste villages give way to Gurung and Magar hill communities, then to Thakali traders and finally to Tibetan-Buddhist highlanders. Knowing who lives where makes the walk far more interesting.

Gurung and Magar foothills

The Gurung (who call themselves Tamu) live in villages such as Ghandruk, Landruk, Chhomrong and Siklis. Many families have a history of service in the British and Indian Army Gurkha regiments, and you may meet retired soldiers running lodges. Their religion blends Buddhism, Hinduism and an older shamanic tradition. The Magar live mainly to the west and south, around Ghorepani and Myagdi.

Thakali of the Kali Gandaki

The Thakali of Marpha, Tukuche and Jomsom grew rich on the salt trade between Tibet and the lowlands. They became known across Nepal for their inns and their cooking: Thakali dal bhat, with buckwheat, ghee and pickles, is the version many Nepalis consider the best. Marpha is known for apples, dried fruit and apple brandy.

Manangi, Loba and Tibetan Buddhism

North of the main range, the people of Manang (Nyeshangba), Nar Phu and Upper Mustang (Loba) follow Tibetan Buddhism. You will pass chortens, prayer walls and wheels, and gompas such as Braga. Many families still herd yaks and grow barley and buckwheat. Muktinath, at the head of the Kali Gandaki, is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists.

Etiquette on the trail

  • Walk clockwise around chortens, stupas and mani walls, keeping them on your right.
  • Ask before photographing people, especially monks and elders, and inside monasteries.
  • Dress modestly in villages: cover shoulders and knees. Change in your room, not on the terrace.
  • Remove shoes before entering homes and shrines, and do not point feet at altars or people.
  • Use your right hand (or both) to give and receive.
  • Do not hand sweets or money to children; give to schools or community funds instead.
  • Eat in the lodge where you sleep. Room prices are kept low on the understanding that you buy meals there.

Practical tips for trekking in the Annapurna Region

What to expect on the ground, from lodges and cash to altitude and safety.

Accommodation standards

Teahouses (trekking lodges) line every main route. Expect twin rooms with foam mattresses and a blanket, shared toilets and a heated dining room. Lower down, many rooms have attached bathrooms and hot showers. Higher up, rooms are colder and more basic. A rough guide to room rates is NPR 500–1,500 (£3–9) per night on the lower trails, more at ABC and the high Circuit. A sleeping bag rated to about −10°C is worth bringing for any route above 3,500 m.

Costs per day

Food prices rise with every day’s walk from the road. A plate of dal bhat might be NPR 500–700 low down and NPR 1,000–1,200 or more at ABC or Thorong Phedi. Budget roughly NPR 4,000–7,000 (about £23–40) a day for food, lodging, hot drinks and charging, excluding your guide. Licensed guides typically cost around US$25–35 a day and porters US$20–25 a day, plus their food and lodging and a tip. These are typical ranges from 2026 cost guides, not fixed prices.

Money and ATMs

Pokhara has many ATMs; Besisahar, Beni and Jomsom have some. Beyond that, do not rely on them; machines reported in Chame and Manang may be empty or offline. Carry enough cash in rupees for the whole trek plus a margin for delays. Card payments are rare in lodges. Indian 500 and 2,000 rupee notes are not accepted.

Connectivity

Nepal Telecom and Ncell both cover much of the region, though signal drops in the gorges and above about 4,000 m. Most lodges offer Wi-Fi, often for a small fee and unreliable in bad weather. The FCDO notes long stretches of the Circuit without mobile coverage. Charging costs extra higher up; carry a power bank.

Altitude and health

The Circuit, Tilicho, Nar Phu, Mardi Himal and ABC all go high enough for altitude sickness to be a real risk. Above 3,000 m, aim to increase your sleeping altitude by no more than 300–500 m a day and add a rest day for every 1,000 m. Know the signs: worsening headache, nausea, breathlessness at rest, confusion or loss of balance. The only cure for serious symptoms is to descend. Check that your travel insurance for trekking covers helicopter evacuation to at least 6,000 m. Drink treated water, not river water.

Safety and current advice

The UK FCDO’s Nepal advice was updated in October 2026. It warns that monsoon floods and landslides can make roads impassable and cut off areas for days, that protests and strikes can start at short notice, and that some guides have been involved in unnecessary helicopter-rescue scams. Nepal saw serious unrest in Kathmandu in September 2025; elections followed in March 2026. In the Annapurna Region itself, 2026’s main problem has been weather damage to roads and bridges, covered above. Check the latest FCDO advice and local road news before you travel.

Mountain hazards

Snow can close the Thorong La at any time of year, and the 2014 blizzard is a reminder not to cross in storms. The gorge between Deurali and Himalaya on the ABC route is prone to avalanches in winter and spring; follow lodge and guide advice to wait or turn around. The trail to Tilicho Base Camp crosses an active landslide slope. Do not trek alone, keep to marked trails and start early, as cloud and wind usually build after midday.

Responsible travel

The ACAP fee funds trail upkeep, conservation and community projects, so pay it in full. Refill bottles at safe-water stations or treat water yourself rather than buying plastic. Carry out batteries and wrappers. Choose operators that pay porters fairly, insure them and limit loads. Use lodges that cook with electricity or improved stoves where you can, and respect sacred sites such as Machhapuchhre, which is closed to climbing.

Combine the Annapurna Region with...

The Annapurna Region combines easily with Nepal’s other highlights, because Pokhara is well connected and the treks are flexible in length.

Mustang

From Jomsom or Kagbeni, continue north into Upper Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo, with walled villages, cave monasteries and desert canyons. It works even in the monsoon. See our Mustang guide for permits and routes.

Manaslu

The Manaslu Circuit ends at Dharapani on the Annapurna Circuit, so strong walkers can link the two. Floods hit the Budhi Gandaki valley hard in autumn 2026, so check status first. Read our Manaslu region guide.

Kathmandu, Chitwan and Lumbini

Most trips start with two or three days in Kathmandu’s old squares and temples. Chitwan National Park is a 5–6 hour drive from Pokhara for jungle safaris, and Lumbini, the Buddha’s birthplace, is a 7–9 hour drive south. Our Nepal travel guide has more on each.

Pokhara rest days

Plan at least two nights in Pokhara after your trek. Paddle on Phewa Lake, walk to the World Peace Pagoda, go paragliding from Sarangkot, or simply rest your legs in Lakeside.

Not sure which Annapurna trek fits your dates, fitness and budget? Get Lost Forever arranges small-group and private treks in the region with licensed local guides, permits and transfers handled. Tell us what you have in mind and we will plan your trip with you.

Frequently asked questions about the Annapurna Region

Officially, yes. Since 1 April 2023, foreign trekkers in Nepal’s national parks and conservation areas must use a licensed guide booked through a registered agency, and the UK FCDO says foreign independent trekkers must use a guide or porter. Enforcement has been inconsistent on Annapurna trails. In September 2026, after floods, ACAP asked all trekkers to use licensed guides except on short routes to Jomsom, Muktinath and Ghandruk.

Around NPR 3,000 (about £17) for foreign nationals and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals; children under 10 are free. It is usually double if bought at a checkpoint, so get it in Kathmandu, Pokhara or through your agency beforehand.

Sources conflict. The FCDO still lists a TIMS card as required for the main trekking regions, while several 2026 agency reports say only the ACAP permit is checked on Annapurna trails. If you trek with an agency, it will arrange a TIMS card if one is needed, typically around NPR 2,000.

ABC is shorter (7–12 days), lower (4,130 m) and ends in a dramatic mountain amphitheatre. The Circuit is longer (12–18 days), crosses a 5,416 m pass and offers more variety in landscape and culture. Choose ABC for a first big trek or limited time; choose the Circuit if you have two to three weeks and want a high pass.

Ghorepani Poon Hill (3–5 days, maximum 3,210 m) is the easiest classic trek, though it has many stone steps. Shorter still are the Australian Camp and Dhampus walk or an overnight trip to Ghandruk.

October and November offer the clearest skies and most stable weather. March and April are next best, with rhododendrons in bloom. Winter suits the lower treks, while the high passes may close. The June–September monsoon brings rain, leeches and road landslides.

Yes, but expect cloud, rain, leeches and road closures on the south side. The rain-shadow areas of Manang and Mustang are drier. The 2026 monsoon damaged roads to Ghandruk, Manang and on the Kathmandu–Pokhara highway, so build in buffer days and check conditions with your agency.

Fly to Pokhara (25–30 minutes) or take a tourist bus or private car (6–9 hours). From Pokhara, jeeps reach trailheads such as Nayapul, Ghandruk and Kande in 1–3 hours. For the Annapurna Circuit, buses and jeeps also run from Kathmandu to Besisahar.

It is one of Nepal’s best-served trekking areas, with lodges, checkpoints and rescue options on the main routes. The main risks are altitude, weather and landslides, plus road travel. Trek with a licensed guide, carry insurance covering helicopter rescue, and check current FCDO advice before you go.

Roughly NPR 4,000–7,000 (about £23–40) per person per day for lodging, meals and extras on the trail, plus around US$25–35 a day for a guide and US$20–25 for a porter. Prices rise with altitude. Permits, transport and Pokhara hotels are extra.

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