Plan my trek
5,416 m (Thorong La)
12–18 days
Moderate–strenuous
Besisahar / Jomsom
ACAP + TIMS card
Oct–Nov, Mar–May
The Annapurna Circuit is a horseshoe-shaped trek around the Annapurna massif in central Nepal. It climbs the Marsyangdi valley from subtropical rice terraces near Besisahar, crosses the Thorong La at 5,416 m, and drops into the dry, Tibetan-style Kali Gandaki valley around Muktinath and Jomsom. No other teahouse trek in Nepal packs this much change in landscape and culture into two weeks.
The trek once took three weeks from Dumre to Pokhara. Roads now run up both valleys, to Manang on the east side and Muktinath on the west. That has changed the trek. Most people now drive the first day or two and finish with a flight or drive from Jomsom. The core between Chame and Muktinath is still superb, and waymarked side trails (the NATT trails) keep you off the dirt road for much of the way.
Expect four distinct worlds. The lower Marsyangdi is green, with waterfalls, banana trees and Gurung and Tamang villages. Above Chame, pine forest gives way to the huge curved slab of Paungda Danda and the first close views of Annapurna II. The upper valley around Pisang, Ngawal and Manang is high, dry and Buddhist, with prayer walls, gompas and views of Annapurna III and Gangapurna. After the pass, Muktinath is a pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Buddhists, and the trail drops through the wind-blown desert of Lower Mustang.
It is not ideal as a very first trek if you have never walked several days in a row, or if you cannot be flexible about dates. The pass closes in bad weather, and the Jomsom flight is often cancelled or suspended.
Compared with the Annapurna Base Camp trek, the circuit is longer and higher (5,416 m against about 4,130 m). It also crosses a pass rather than ending in a mountain amphitheatre, and has far more cultural variety. Compared with Everest Base Camp, it is a similar altitude challenge but with an easier, more gradual approach, no Lukla flight to start, and more varied scenery, though the giant peaks are less in your face. The Manaslu Circuit next door is quieter, wilder and has no road on most of the route, but needs a restricted-area permit and a guide. See our trekking in Nepal guide for a full comparison.
The usual direction is anticlockwise: start in the east at Besisahar (about 760 m, a 6 to 8 hour drive from Kathmandu), go north and west up the Marsyangdi through Dharapani, Chame and Pisang to Manang (3,540 m), climb to Thorong Phedi or High Camp, cross the Thorong La, and descend to Muktinath (about 3,760 m). From there you either go out via Jomsom (2,720 m) to Pokhara, or keep walking south down the Kali Gandaki to Tatopani and up to Ghorepani and Poon Hill. Walking anticlockwise gives a slower, safer gain in altitude before the pass.
This is a realistic 12-day plan from Kathmandu to Pokhara for a fit walker, using a jeep for the lowest, most road-affected section. Add a day in Kathmandu at each end for permits and flight delays. Walking all the way from Besisahar adds two to three days. Continuing to Tatopani and Poon Hill instead of leaving from Jomsom adds four to five.
| Day | Route | Altitude (sleep) | Walking time |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kathmandu to Besisahar by bus or jeep, then jeep to Chamje or Dharapani | 1,430–1,860 m | 8–10 h driving |
| 2 | Chamje to Dharapani (or Dharapani to Danakyu/Timang) | 1,860 m | 5–6 h |
| 3 | Dharapani to Chame via Timang high trail | 2,670 m | 5–6 h |
| 4 | Chame to Upper Pisang, past Bhratang and Paungda Danda | 3,300 m | 5–6 h |
| 5 | Upper Pisang to Manang via Ghyaru and Ngawal (high route) | 3,540 m | 6–7 h |
| 6 | Acclimatisation day in Manang: hike to Ice Lake, Praken Gompa or Gangapurna Lake | 3,540 m (hike to 3,900–4,600 m) | 3–6 h |
| 7 | Manang to Yak Kharka or Ledar | 4,050–4,200 m | 3–4 h |
| 8 | Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi (or High Camp) | 4,450 m (High Camp about 4,880 m) | 3–5 h |
| 9 | Thorong Phedi over the Thorong La to Muktinath | 5,416 m pass; sleep about 3,760 m | 7–10 h |
| 10 | Muktinath to Jomsom via Lupra or Kagbeni | 2,720 m | 5–6 h (or 1 h by jeep) |
| 11 | Jomsom to Pokhara by flight (if running) or by road via Beni | 820 m | 20 min flight or 7–10 h drive |
| 12 | Spare day for weather, road or flight delays; return to Kathmandu | 1,400 m | Bus 7–8 h or 25-minute flight |
Altitudes vary slightly between maps and signboards, so treat them as approximate. Times are for steady walking with breaks, not including side trips.
The road from Besisahar to Chame is now a busy jeep track, and from April 2025 a regular public bus has run to Chame. If you have time and like villages, walk from Bhulbhule or Besisahar on the east-bank trails through Ngadi, Bahundanda and Jagat. That is two to three extra days of lower, warmer walking, and it helps your legs and lungs adjust. If you are short on time, take a jeep to Chamje, Dharapani or Chame. Do not jeep higher than Chame unless you have already acclimatised, because jumping straight to 3,500 m is the main cause of altitude problems on this route.
Up to three quarters of the original route has been affected by road building. The answer is the NATT (New, or Natural, Annapurna Trekking Trails): alternative paths, mostly on the opposite bank or higher up, marked with red-and-white and blue-and-white paint flashes. On the east side the most useful are the east-bank trail between Tal and Dharapani, the Timang high trail towards Chame, and the high route from Upper Pisang through Ghyaru and Ngawal to Manang, which is the scenic highlight of the whole valley. On the west side, trails avoid much of the jeep road from Muktinath via Lupra to Jomsom, and from Marpha down the east bank of the Kali Gandaki towards Kalopani, Ghasa and Tatopani. Marking is inconsistent at junctions, so carry an offline map (Maps.me or a similar app) and ask locally.
Tilicho Lake, at about 4,919 m, is one of the highest lakes of its size in the world, set beneath the ice cliffs of Tilicho Peak. From Manang you walk west via Khangsar (about 3,730 m) to Shree Kharka (about 4,060 m) and Tilicho Base Camp (about 4,150 m). The next morning you climb roughly 800 m to the lake and return to base camp or Shree Kharka. You then rejoin the main trail at Yak Kharka or Ledar via a connecting path from Old Khangsar. Two warnings. First, the trail between Shree Kharka and Tilicho Base Camp crosses steep, landslide-prone scree slopes where rockfall is a real risk, so cross early and without stopping. Second, the lake climb is good extra acclimatisation, but it is a hard day. Budget two to three extra days.
Most trekkers leave Thorong Phedi (about 4,450 m) at around 4 to 5 am, or High Camp (about 4,880 m) an hour later. The climb to the pass is steady rather than technical, but at this height every step is slow. Allow three to five hours from Phedi to the top. From the prayer flags and teashop on the pass, it is a long, knee-jarring descent of about 1,650 m to Muktinath. Start early because wind rises by late morning. If you feel unwell at High Camp or Phedi, do not go up. Go down instead.
Muktinath (about 3,760 m) is a temple complex sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, with 108 water spouts and a shrine with a natural gas flame. Pilgrims from India and Nepal arrive by jeep, so it is busier than the trail. Spend an afternoon here if you can. Kagbeni, an hour or two below, is an atmospheric mud-brick village at the gateway to Upper Mustang, with a red-walled gompa.
The quickest exit is from Jomsom. The 20-minute flight to Pokhara is spectacular when it runs, but flights only operate in the morning and are often cancelled for wind or cloud. Regular Pokhara to Jomsom services have also been suspended for long periods. In October 2026, Nepali media reported that both Tara Air and Summit Air had suspended regular flights, with no restart date. Plan to go by road unless your operator confirms the flight. Buses and shared jeeps run from Jomsom to Pokhara via Beni in a long day (about 7 to 10 hours), or a private jeep takes six to nine hours.
If you have four or five more days, continue on foot down the Kali Gandaki. Walk through Marpha, known for its apples and stone lanes, then along east-bank trails via Kalopani and Ghasa to Tatopani (about 1,190 m), known for its hot springs. From Tatopani it is a big climb (about 1,700 m) to Ghorepani (about 2,860 m). There, a pre-dawn walk up Poon Hill (about 3,210 m) gives a classic view of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. You then descend via Ulleri to Nayapul or Hile for a 1.5 to 2-hour drive to Pokhara. This finish is greener and warmer, and adds the Poon Hill trek to your circuit.
With extra time, the Nar Phu valley branches off near Koto, just below Chame, into two remote Tibetan-style villages. It needs a restricted-area permit and a licensed guide. It is often combined with the Kang La (about 5,320 m) back down to Ngawal. You can also stay longer in Manang for day hikes, or link the circuit with the Manaslu Circuit to the east for a month-long trip through the central Himalaya.
The honest answer: it is a moderate to strenuous trek, and the difficulty is mostly about altitude and length, not technical terrain. There is no climbing or scrambling on the standard route. Most days are five to seven hours on good paths and jeep tracks. If you can walk 15 to 20 km on hilly ground two days running and feel fine, you have the base fitness. What you cannot train for at home is how your body copes above 4,000 m.
Thorong La day is in a different league from the rest. From Thorong Phedi you climb about 970 m to 5,416 m in the dark and cold, then descend about 1,650 m to Muktinath. That is 7 to 10 hours, often in snow or ice in spring and late autumn, with temperatures well below freezing before sunrise. Microspikes help in snowy conditions; ask your guide or lodge the night before.
The circuit’s gradual, anticlockwise ascent is its big safety advantage, but only if you use it. Above 3,000 m, aim to raise your sleeping altitude by no more than about 300 to 500 m a night, and take a rest day after every 1,000 m or so. In practice that means at least one full night in Manang, with a day hike higher, plus short days to Yak Kharka and Phedi. Sleeping at High Camp (about 4,880 m) shortens pass day but is a big jump from Yak Kharka, so only do it if you feel strong. Read our guide to altitude sickness; the same rules apply here.
Start training 8 to 12 weeks before. Build up to back-to-back weekend hikes of five to seven hours with a light pack, include long climbs and descents (stairs or hills) for your knees, and add two or three cardio sessions a week. Our training guide for Everest Base Camp works equally well for this trek. If you are new to multi-day walking, read trekking for beginners first and consider a shorter route like Poon Hill.
Age is less important than steady fitness and a willingness to go slowly. Plenty of trekkers in their sixties complete the circuit; plenty of fit twenty-somethings get altitude sickness by rushing.
The Annapurna Circuit lies inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, run by the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC). The standard route is not a restricted area, so the permits are simple and cheap. Fees below were current at the time of writing; they change, so check when you pay.
| Permit | Foreign nationals | SAARC nationals | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit) | NPR 3,000 (about £17) | NPR 1,000 (some sources say 1,500) | Children under 10 free. Buying at a checkpoint costs double. |
| TIMS card | NPR 2,000 (about £11) | NPR 1,000 (sources vary) | Issued through a registered agency for guided trekkers. |
| Nar Phu restricted area permit (optional side trek) | Around US$100 per person for the first week in autumn, less in other seasons | Same | Only through an agency, with a licensed guide. |
Get the ACAP in Kathmandu at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Bhrikutimandap or in Pokhara, or let your agency arrange both permits. You need your passport and passport photos (bring four). Checkpoints are at Besisahar, Dharapani or Chame, Manang, Thorong Phedi, Muktinath and Jomsom, so keep your permits handy.
From 1 April 2023, the Nepal Tourism Board has required foreign trekkers in national parks and conservation areas to trek with a licensed guide booked through a registered agency. The UK FCDO also says that foreign independent trekkers must use a local guide or porter in protected areas. The Annapurna Conservation Area is covered on paper.
In practice, enforcement in the Annapurna region has been patchy. Trekker reports through 2024 and 2025 describe checkpoints that recorded names without asking for a guide. Some agency sites still say solo trekking is allowed here, and others say it is banned. Do not plan around a loophole. The rules can be enforced at any checkpoint. A guide is also genuinely useful for route-finding on NATT trails, judging the pass, and handling altitude problems. If you go with a licensed guide, the TIMS card is issued through their agency.
Costs depend mostly on how much support you want and where you book. Rough bands per person for about 12 to 14 days on the trail, excluding international flights and visa:
| Style | What it includes | Rough cost |
|---|---|---|
| Teahouse-only budget (you pay lodges, food and transport yourself, plus a guide) | Room, three meals, hot drinks, permits, local transport, guide wage | Lodges and food about NPR 5,000–9,000 (£28–50) a day, plus a guide at about US$25–35 (£19–27) a day |
| Local agency package | Guide, permits, lodges, meals, ground transport; porter often extra | Roughly US$800–1,400 (£600–1,050) |
| International small-group operator | As above, plus hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara, group leader, more support | Often £1,500–2,800, sometimes more |
A porter typically costs about US$20–25 (£15–19) a day and carries up to around 20 kg, often shared between two trekkers. Tipping guides and porters at the end of the trek is expected; many trekkers give around 10 to 15 per cent of the guide and porter wages.
There are ATMs in Besisahar and Jomsom and reportedly in Chame and Manang, but they often run out of cash, go offline or reject foreign cards. Carry enough Nepali rupees from Kathmandu or Pokhara for the whole trek, with a reserve. Lodges take cash only.
The best months are October and November, followed by late March to early May. These seasons give the most stable weather on the Thorong La and the clearest views. For a broader picture, see our guide to the best season to travel in Nepal.
| Month | Weather | Crowds | Views and trail conditions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan–Feb | Cold and mostly dry; heavy snow possible | Very quiet | Clear but the Thorong La is often closed or dangerous; many high lodges shut |
| March | Warming, some snow on the pass | Getting busier | Good views; snow and ice above 4,500 m early in the month |
| April–May | Warm in the valleys, haze builds by May | Busy in April | Rhododendrons in the lower valley; afternoon cloud and occasional storms |
| June–Aug | Monsoon on the east side; Manang and Mustang lie partly in the rain shadow | Quiet | Leeches, landslides and road closures low down; views often hidden |
| September | Monsoon tailing off, mostly by late month | Picking up | Green and lush; risk of late floods and landslides |
| Oct–Nov | Dry, stable, cold nights | Busiest | Clearest views; best overall season. Nights at Phedi well below freezing |
| December | Cold and dry | Quieter | Clear skies; growing risk of snow closing the pass |
The road up the Marsyangdi is prone to floods and landslides. In July 2026, after days of continuous rain, Manang’s district administration urged people not to travel to Manang unless absolutely necessary. In late September 2026, floods and landslides blocked the Besisahar to Chame to Manang road. Debris from the Ghatte river raised the Marsyangdi and submerged the bridge at Chame. The road to Upper Manang reopened for light vehicles only on 13 October 2026, over a temporary timber crossing, after about three weeks. Trekkers can usually walk around blockages, but jeep transfers may stop or change. If you go in early autumn, build in spare days and ask your operator for the latest road status.
The Thorong La can close for days at any time of year after heavy snow. In October 2014, a sudden blizzard from the remains of a cyclone killed more than 40 people in the area. Since then, lodges and guides are much more cautious about letting people cross in bad weather. If the pass is shut, wait at Phedi or Manang rather than trying to push through.
The circuit is a full teahouse trek: you sleep and eat in family-run lodges every night, with no camping needed. Standards are among the best in Nepal, especially in Chame, Manang, Muktinath, Jomsom and Marpha, where some lodges have attached bathrooms and hot showers.
Expect a simple twin room with two foam-mattress beds, a pillow, a blanket and a light bulb. Lower down, rooms cost roughly NPR 700–1,200 (£4–7). Above Manang, they cost roughly NPR 1,500–2,000 (£8–11). Some lodges offer the room very cheaply or free if you eat dinner and breakfast there, and charge more if you do not. Shared squat or sit-down toilets are normal at Yak Kharka, Phedi and High Camp. In peak October, the few lodges at Thorong Phedi and High Camp fill up early in the day, so a guide who rings ahead is a real advantage.
Menus are long and surprisingly similar: dal bhat (rice, lentils and vegetable curry, usually with free refills), noodles, fried rice, momos, pasta, pizza of a sort, potatoes and porridge. Manang is known for its bakeries, with apple pie and cinnamon rolls. Marpha, on the Kali Gandaki side, is famous for its apples. Rough prices:
Dal bhat is the best value and most filling choice. Avoid meat above Manang, because it has often been carried up for days without refrigeration.
Bottled water rises from about NPR 100 in Besisahar to NPR 300–400 at High Camp, and plastic bottles are a serious litter problem. Bring a filter bottle or purification tablets, and refill from taps or the boiled water that lodges sell. Some villages have safe-water refill stations supported by ACAP. Drink three to four litres a day at altitude.
The circuit is safe for prepared trekkers, but altitude, weather and roads are real risks. For general advice, see our safety tips for trekking in Nepal.
Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is common above 3,500 m. Symptoms include headache, nausea, loss of appetite, poor sleep and unusual tiredness. If they get worse, or you become confused, unsteady or very breathless at rest, descend at once; these can be signs of life-threatening HACE or HAPE. Never cross the pass with symptoms. In Manang, the Himalayan Rescue Association has traditionally run a seasonal aid post in spring and autumn, with talks on altitude for trekkers. Helicopter evacuation is possible from Manang, Phedi and Muktinath in good weather, but it is very expensive, often several thousand US dollars. Ask your doctor about altitude medicines such as acetazolamide before you go.
Conditions on the Thorong La can change within an hour. Check the forecast with your lodge and guide, start early, and turn back if a storm comes in. Wear proper layers, gloves, hat and sunglasses; frostbite and snow blindness are real risks even on sunny days. Do not cross alone or late in the day.
Jeep rides on the Besisahar–Manang and Beni–Jomsom roads are rough, narrow and sometimes blocked by landslides, especially from June to September. Choose experienced drivers, avoid overcrowded vehicles, and do not travel at night. The FCDO also advises this. Where a NATT trail exists, walking is often the safer and more pleasant option.
Your policy must cover trekking to at least 5,500 m and helicopter evacuation and mountain rescue. Many standard travel policies stop at much lower altitudes, so read the small print. See our guide: do I need travel insurance for trekking?
At the time of writing, the UK FCDO does not advise against travel to Nepal, but warns that protests, strikes and curfews can happen at short notice. Nepal saw deadly anti-government protests in Kathmandu in September 2025, which led to an interim government; elections followed in March 2026. The FCDO also warns of monsoon floods and landslides, says no Nepali airline meets the standard for the UK Air Safety List, and advises against trekking alone. It recommends a satellite phone on the Annapurna Circuit, where mobile coverage is limited. Check the latest FCDO travel advice for Nepal before you book and again before you fly.
Porters carry heavy loads to 5,416 m, often in poor footwear. Choose an agency that insures its staff, provides warm clothing, boots and sunglasses for the pass, limits loads to around 20 kg, and pays fair wages. Make sure your porter has proper shelter and food, and that someone checks on them if they feel ill. The International Porter Protection Group (IPPG) publishes good guidelines. Bad behaviour is often a sign of an unusually cheap deal, which the FCDO also warns about.
Most treks start from Kathmandu and finish in Pokhara. Prices are approximate and change often, especially after fuel price rises or road damage.
| Route | Option | Time | Approx. cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kathmandu to Besisahar | Local or tourist bus | 6–8 h (up to 9) | Roughly NPR 1,000–2,000 (£6–11) |
| Kathmandu to Besisahar | Private jeep | 5–7 h | Roughly US$150–200 per vehicle |
| Pokhara to Besisahar | Local bus or jeep | 4–5 h | Roughly NPR 600–1,000 (£3–6) by bus |
| Besisahar to Chamje, Dharapani or Chame | Shared jeep (bus to Chame since 2025) | 3–7 h depending on destination | Roughly NPR 3,000–5,000 (£17–28) per seat to Chame |
| Besisahar to Chame | Private jeep | 5–7 h | Roughly US$120–150 per vehicle |
| Muktinath to Jomsom | Shared jeep or bus | About 1–1.5 h | A few hundred to about NPR 1,500 per seat |
| Jomsom to Pokhara | Bus or shared jeep via Beni | 7–10 h | Roughly NPR 1,500–3,000 (£9–17) |
| Jomsom to Pokhara | Flight (when running) | About 20 min | Roughly US$120–180 one way for foreigners |
| Nayapul or Hile to Pokhara | Taxi or jeep (after Poon Hill) | 1.5–2 h | Roughly NPR 3,000–5,000 per vehicle |
| Pokhara to Kathmandu | Tourist bus / flight | 7–8 h / 25 min | Bus about NPR 1,000–2,000; flight roughly US$100–130 |
Buses to Besisahar leave early in the morning from the Gongabu (New Bus Park) area of Kathmandu and from Pokhara. From Besisahar, shared jeeps leave from the jeep stand for Bhulbhule, Chamje, Dharapani and Chame. Public buses have run to Chame since April 2025. Seats fill fast in October, so arrive early or let your agency book a private vehicle. After the September 2026 floods, light vehicles were running again to Manang and Khangsar from mid-October. Check the situation shortly before you go.
Jomsom flights only fly in the morning and are frequently cancelled for wind. They were also suspended in October 2026, so treat them as a bonus. The road from Jomsom follows the Kali Gandaki gorge through Ghasa and Tatopani to Beni and Pokhara. It is improving but is still rough in places, and landslides are common in the monsoon.
If you are tempted to fly Kathmandu–Pokhara–Jomsom and trek the circuit clockwise from Muktinath, think twice. Crossing from the west means climbing about 1,650 m to the pass in one day, which is much harder and riskier for acclimatisation.
Pack for a big range of temperatures: around 25 to 30 degrees C in the lower valley and minus 10 to minus 15 degrees C before dawn on the pass. Keep your porter’s load to around 10 kg each, or your own pack light if you carry it. Our trekking packing list gives the full kit list. These are the items that matter most here.
The Annapurna Circuit combines well with other trips, and if it does not suit your time or fitness, there are strong alternatives nearby.
Shorter and lower (around 7 to 12 days, max about 4,130 m), ABC takes you into the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary, surrounded by peaks. It has less cultural variety and no high pass, but it is a superb first Himalayan trek. See our Annapurna Base Camp Trek.
A 4 to 5 day trek from Pokhara to a famous sunrise viewpoint at about 3,210 m. It is an easy way to finish the circuit, or a gentle standalone trek if you are short of time. Read our Poon Hill trek guide.
The wilder neighbour to the east, crossing the Larkya La (about 5,160 m). It needs a restricted-area permit and a licensed guide, but has far less road and fewer trekkers. See our Manaslu Circuit guide.
From Jomsom or Kagbeni, the arid canyons of Upper Mustang lie just to the north. It is a natural extension for culture lovers. Our Mustang guide covers both Lower and Upper Mustang.
If high mountains are your main goal, compare the circuit with the Everest Base Camp Trek, which climbs higher but along an out-and-back route.
Recover by the lake after your trek. Pokhara is the end point for most circuit treks and the base for paragliding, boating and shorter walks.
Ready to plan your Annapurna Circuit? Get Lost Forever runs small-group and private treks with licensed local guides, fair porter conditions and itineraries built around safe acclimatisation. Tell us your dates and experience on our plan your trip page and we will help you choose the right route, timing and ending option.
Plan on 12 to 14 days from Kathmandu to Pokhara if you drive to Chamje or Dharapani and leave from Jomsom. Allow 15 to 18 days if you walk from Besisahar, add Tilicho Lake, or finish via Tatopani and Poon Hill. Always add one or two spare days for weather and transport delays.
It is a moderate to strenuous trek. There is no technical climbing, but you walk for 5 to 7 hours most days and cross the Thorong La at 5,416 m on a 7 to 10 hour day. Good fitness and a slow, careful ascent matter more than experience.
A fit beginner can do it with a guide and a sensible itinerary that includes rest days. If you have never done a multi-day hike, try a shorter trek such as Poon Hill first, or train with long back-to-back hill walks.
Officially yes. Since April 2023, Nepal’s rules require foreign trekkers in conservation areas to use a licensed guide, and the UK FCDO repeats this. Enforcement in the Annapurna region has been inconsistent, but the rule can be applied at any checkpoint, and a guide adds real safety on the pass.
You need the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP), about NPR 3,000 (around £17) for most foreigners, and a TIMS card, about NPR 2,000 (around £11), which agencies issue for guided trekkers. Nar Phu requires an extra restricted-area permit.
October and November give the most stable weather and clearest views, followed by late March to May. Winter often brings snow that closes the pass, and the monsoon (June to September) brings landslides and road closures on the lower trail.
The road has changed the lower sections and parts of the Kali Gandaki side, but it has not ruined the trek. Using the NATT side trails, especially the Upper Pisang to Ngawal high route, and driving the dullest road sections lets you keep most of your walking on footpaths.
Yes, if you have two to three extra days and are acclimatising well. The lake, at about 4,919 m, is stunning and the trip helps acclimatisation for the pass. However, the trail to base camp crosses landslide-prone scree, and the climb to the lake is a hard day.
Anticlockwise, from Besisahar to Muktinath. This gives a gradual gain in altitude before the Thorong La. Going clockwise means a climb of about 1,650 m from Muktinath to the pass in one day, which is much harder and riskier.
Roughly US$800 to 1,400 (around £600 to £1,050) with a local agency for 12 to 14 days, or often £1,500 to £2,800 with an international operator. If you book a guide separately and pay your own way, lodges and food typically cost NPR 5,000 to 9,000 (£28 to £50) a day, plus guide fees.
There are ATMs in Besisahar and Jomsom and reportedly in Chame and Manang, but they are unreliable and may reject foreign cards. Carry enough Nepali rupees for the whole trek from Kathmandu or Pokhara.
Sometimes. The Jomsom to Pokhara flight runs only in the morning, is often cancelled for wind, and regular services were suspended in October 2026. Most trekkers now return by bus or jeep, or walk on to Tatopani and Poon Hill.
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